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Old 12-04-2015, 09:31 PM
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If it ever need replaced you will just make another one! I just don't see you buying anything over the counter Brett. I just don't think you are that kind of guy. Jump in, get your hands dirty and create, create, create. That's what I see.
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Old 12-05-2015, 12:31 AM
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Sterling #S009-pc040004.jpg
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Old 12-05-2015, 12:46 AM
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Are those bonded in place? I'm interested in how well they'll hold over time.
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Old 12-05-2015, 11:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ydeardorff View Post
Are those bonded in place? I'm interested in how well they'll hold over time.

Location of the bracket was counter sunk the thickness of the bracket about 1/8" into the hood. I used Evercoat panel bonding adhesive #816. After that was setup I added a layer of 2oz fiberglass cloth over that using the same adhesive.

Its not going anywhere
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Sterling #S009-pc050003.jpg   Sterling #S009-pc050005.jpg   Sterling #S009-pc050006.jpg  

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Old 12-06-2015, 12:10 PM
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How did you determine the mounting location of the brackets on the hood itself?
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Old 12-06-2015, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vpogv View Post
How did you determine the mounting location of the brackets on the hood itself?

I like these struts. Scale wise they look like they belong on the car and the force they have doesn't overwhelm the part its lifting.

First priority was for it to clear the gas tank
Sterling #S009-pc060002.jpg


After taking some measurements and making sure the bracket from the hood would clear everything a starting point was established. A mark was placed on the the hood and the edge of the opening
Sterling #S009-pc060006.jpg

With the shock compressed another mark was made at the edge of the hood opening. This would establish the point of no return that the strut could be compressed so nothing would bind up
Sterling #S009-pc060005.jpg


The hood was raised and an opening height was established.
Sterling #S009-pc060009.jpg

The lower mount was moved back till the shock at its fully extended position reached the desired hood height. If the strut didn't reach this point just repeat everything all over only move the strut closer to the hoods pivot point
Sterling #S009-pc060010.jpg

Once the mounting spots had been determined I clamped the strut mounts down to see if the struts had enough force to hold the hood open which they did.
Then it was just a mater of attaching the mounts.
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Old 12-06-2015, 08:20 PM
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Pretty much same as I did with the tape etc, only on the SS we have a 28mm bar across the front for headlight lifter so I had to go the short strut route with a low bottom mounting rather than tail gate ones but 120Nm did the trick.

Of course the tension when closed is fore and aft on yours and up and down on mine so pressure on the pivot differs but it all works that's the main thing.

Sterling #S009-img780.jpg

www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkaiNPZy1Nw

I drilled and countersunk my 4mm hood screws as I was wrapping it but a little filler would cover too.
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Last edited by Peter; 12-06-2015 at 08:32 PM.
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Old 12-06-2015, 09:07 PM
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Thanks guys. I was way over-complicating it.
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Old 12-07-2015, 12:21 AM
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Just did a check on Rock Auto for these struts.

Cost for a brand new strut is only $7.56-$12.96

And I've been wasting my money on used struts. Well at least I got the mounts with those used struts.
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Old 12-07-2015, 07:10 AM
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I have bought used struts for my BMW seat recliners, hood struts and door struts and you are right Brett, oh yes you are , waste of time and money, unequal pressures, limited life span, worn fittings, (that's why the seller sold them, they are clapped out) the cost of new is small and 100% on spec'.

I am going to run a pair parallel with my actuators so the actuators only move the doors (canopy) not lift them with the struts taking the weight. Just need to sort out the Nm for a 50Lb lift, should be about 250Nm should do it with a bit to spare.

Tip, if you want to know what the strut/ram/actuator has to handle weight wise, use a stick and a kitchen scale, place top of stick, (tape or glue it) where the upper mount will be and rest the bottom on the scales, that will tell you the weight at that point, the force will differ as you move to or away from the pivot and then divide by two (struts). On my doors I used a fisherman's (luggage) scales and pulled the door up to get the weight (50Lbs).
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Last edited by Peter; 12-07-2015 at 07:18 AM.
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