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Old 12-14-2015, 09:17 AM
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Default One for all the Scooby aficionadoís out there

If looking for a donor Subaru for a conversion (complete car for engine, loom, other electricals, gauges etc..) which are the ones to go for (I donít want the turboís to lessen the headaches)?

What would be the maximum mileage you should ideally go for? Or is the accepted view that you will need to recondition the engine anyone so mileage becomes less of an issue?
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Old 12-14-2015, 04:34 PM
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If you are looking for a complete car, then go for any 2.0 or 2.5 liter 4cylinder EJ series engine after 1996. Preferrably after 2000.
Alternately, you can get a complete motor/trans/wiring and ecu from a JDM importer. Those only have about 40k miles on them typically. Had I thought it through more I would gone with the JDM stuff. Its just a better deal.
Turbo, or non turbo the overall system is the same. Just a few more parts with the turbo. But you get nearly 100 more hp.

Here are a couple of examples pulled from ebay:
JDM Subaru Legacy GT 01 02 BG5 EJ20 Twin Turbo Engine 5 Speed AWD Transmission | eBay

JDM Subaru Legacy EJ20X Turbo AVCS Engine 5 Speed Transmission BP5 Forester XT | eBay

JDM Subaru Legacy GT 01 02 BG5 EJ20 Twin Turbo Engine 5 Speed AWD Transmission | eBay

Just make sure you get a manual transmission if you get one. Either for resale, or doing the subarugears flipped diff. You will find there is a much larger selection of turbo engines than non.

As an added point,...
For the most part whether its a legacy, outback, or forester, they all use the same engines.
The only exception is the 2.0, and 2.5 liter turbo engines. Many parts are interchangeable from 1990 on on all EJ series engines. Which is very handy for spares!
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Last edited by ydeardorff; 12-14-2015 at 06:58 PM.
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Old 12-14-2015, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by ydeardorff View Post



Just make sure you get a manual transmission if you get one. Either for resale, or doing the subarugears flipped diff. You will find there is a much larger selection of turbo engines than non.
I have already ordered a new box from subarugears so I assume automatic transmission cars would be ok as well assuming the bell housing isn't different ? I also assume automatics are less likely to have had their engines thrashed
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Old 12-14-2015, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by islandman View Post
I have already ordered a new box from subarugears so I assume automatic transmission cars would be ok as well assuming the bell housing isn't different ? I also assume automatics are less likely to have had their engines thrashed
The only difference is in the number of bolts used for the turbo vs non turbo engines. If memory serves, the turbos have 8 bolts, and the non turbos have 6. So if you bought a non turbo tranny from subarugears, then youll have to run a non turbo engine.
If you were to get a JDM subaru EJ25 engine go for the manual transmission one. Otherwise youll have to buy the flywheel too.
Since you have the trans already, then you can save even more money by just nabbing an engine with the wiring and ECU.
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Old 12-15-2015, 06:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ydeardorff View Post
. Otherwise youll have to buy the flywheel too
Good point completely missed that autos don't have the flywheel!

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Originally Posted by ydeardorff View Post
Since you have the trans already, then you can save even more money by just nabbing an engine with the wiring and ECU.
I hear you but still leaning towards a complete car, mainly for steering column, loom, gauges, immobilizer gubbins and other electrics. I just have become paranoid about the electrics part from reading stuff.
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Old 12-15-2015, 01:28 PM
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OK, Many of the parts you wont be able to use. They are just too big!
There are also no immobilizers until 2005.
The electronics are actually pretty simple.
Now if your fixed on the whole car route, I would reccomend finding a wrecked car like I did, or a junk yard car that uses the same engine.
Only for the purposes of grabbing the entire wiring loom (uncut). It will be more than you need for electrics, but youll get all the modern niceties right down to that annoying ding, ding, ding when you put the key in the ignition. Everything will be pre-wired, and ready to go. All you need to do is lay it in the car.
Be sure to label EVERYTHING. Label each connector as you unplug it.
But understand most of the stuff will not fit in the car without serious modification solely due to its size.

There is a video on youtube of somene who put the whole cut down dash of a legacy (liberty) into a eureka I think with a scooby twin turbo engine:
https://youtu.be/VB0HYERXRQI?list=LL...GFJmyyjAzP3uFw

The only thing is it doesnt show it fitting under the body.

I would still reccomend getting a low mileage jdm engine though. that way its just ready to go. No need for a rebuild.

Last edited by ydeardorff; 12-15-2015 at 01:34 PM.
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Old 12-15-2015, 02:43 PM
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Subaru dashboard definitely fits (look at my build thread where I perform a fit check). I am going the same route (full dash and complete but slightly extended harness). Based on my experience I would highly advise getting a full car. I would only consider cars with less then 80k miles. Ideally 2001-2004 (no immobilizer or drive by wire to deal with). I picked up a lightly damaged 2001 Legacy with 53k miles for $900 bucks. After selling misc parts, I ended up with free subaru drivetrain and all supporting electronics.

Last edited by sector; 12-15-2015 at 02:47 PM.
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Old 01-31-2016, 03:35 PM
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Well got the loom out, and the dash......what a pig of a job, it fights you every step of the way!







When it comes to using the loom I would interested to hear how others have approached it. My current thoughts are something along these lines:

1. Lay rope out in the Nova where I want the loom to run and branching off where the various components will be situated, dashboard, engine, ecu, lights etc.. (this becomes my measurement template)
2. Take all the covering / protection off the stock Subaru loom, identify each component and what Iím keeping and what Iím not
3. Cut out the cables I will not be using at the terminal blocks (too hard to get the pins out I think).
4. Then cut the cables as required and splice in new cable (preferably same colours) to extend or shorten the circuits to conform with the lengths of the rope templates.

Any advice or insights gratefully received
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Old 01-31-2016, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sector View Post
Subaru dashboard definitely fits (look at my build thread where I perform a fit check). I am going the same route (full dash and complete but slightly extended harness). Based on my experience I would highly advise getting a full car. I would only consider cars with less then 80k miles. Ideally 2001-2004 (no immobilizer or drive by wire to deal with). I picked up a lightly damaged 2001 Legacy with 53k miles for $900 bucks. After selling misc parts, I ended up with free subaru drivetrain and all supporting electronics.
Did you get any further with the dash install?
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Old 01-31-2016, 07:38 PM
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Quoted Text: Replies:
When it comes to using the loom I would interested to hear how others have approached it. My current thoughts are something along these lines:

1. Lay rope out in the Nova where I want the loom to run and branching off where the various components will be situated, dashboard, engine, ecu, lights etc.. (this becomes my measurement template)
The Subaru should already be (primarily) laid out like a giant H. Lay it out exaclty as you did in the subaru. Run the rear legs down through the side pods and fenders. Run the front legs through the front of the tub into the spare tire area.


2. Take all the covering / protection off the stock Subaru loom, identify each component and what Iím keeping and what Iím not
I didnt, There alot of systems that you might think you dont need now, but might want later as you go along. So if it isnt a 15amp circuit or more that you can use at all, cut it out, but if the circuit could be useful down the road, keep it. Subaru has already done the work for you on amperage loads, wiring size, etc.

3. Cut out the cables I will not be using at the terminal blocks (too hard to get the pins out I think).
They are easy to remove using a paperclip against the male end of the connector. save those pins for later (might come in handy)


4. Then cut the cables as required and splice in new cable (preferably same colours) to extend or shorten the circuits to conform with the lengths of the rope templates.
Yes, extend the plugs you need to such as motor plugs, transmission VSS, reverse, neutral etc. Leave about 6 inches away from the plug, then cut and splice any color wire as long is it is properly soldered, and shrink wrapped (especially computer management wires). This way youll still know what it is on each end of the splice via the OEM color coding.


Any advice or insights gratefully received

Everything in that yellow wrap you should be able to ditch. It should be the airbag wiring. I dont think you want that in your car.
You also might consider keeping that main cross bar (cut it and reweld it together to fit if yoo need to)

Last edited by ydeardorff; 01-31-2016 at 07:58 PM.
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