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Old 01-28-2017, 11:23 AM
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Good point, I am sure my Citroen C15 unit is bolted directly to the bracket so I might look into fitting some grommets to the mounting bolt holes.
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2017, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by islandman View Post
Don't make the mistake I did and go for solid mounts. I tried several, rubber, urethane and then eventually solid aluminium mounts. They worked for a while but all the vibration and kickback from the wheels goes and eventually wears the interference fit joint between the outer steel stube and cast aluminium pinion section. All because I didn't do the mount properly in the first place.

So I fixed that and I'm back to runner mounts and the feel is so much better

I was going to find a mount like this one and then locate it in the desired position.

This mount is from the power VW unit that I have. The tube diameter is bigger than the Metro unit so I would have to locate one with the correct diameter to fit over the Metro's tube
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Here's a better view of the dimension at the pinion section.
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Old 01-29-2017, 10:37 AM
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Rebuilt the Geo Metro unit yesterday and couldn't believe how simple and easy it was to take apart and rebuild. Only 2 seals in the whole unit. One for the shaft and an o'ring for the cap.

New bellows should be here this week. Got those from Rockauto. Prices range from $9-$20 depending on quality.

I'm starting to really like how easy this install will be. No hydraulic lines to run, no power steering pump to install, one less belt to run off the engine to the pump, Just two wires to the EPAS and the low profile of the rack and pinion unit should fit with no hassles. and you can find inner and outer tie rods that will work so there is no cutting and rethreading of the old inner tie rods.

So watch this come back and bite me
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Old 01-29-2017, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brett Proctor View Post
one less belt to run off the engine to the pump,
And don't forget to add to the list of benefits a few more horses coming out of the engine with no hydraulic pump

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brett Proctor View Post
and you can find inner and outer tie rods that will work so there is no cutting and rethreading of the old inner tie rods.
Now that one really really surprises me, correct length tie rods that take the right taper track rod ends on an R&P for a beetle with no cutting and welding (which is an MOT no no), well done!
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Old 01-31-2017, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by islandman View Post
Don't make the mistake I did and go for solid mounts. I tried several, rubber, urethane and then eventually solid aluminium mounts. They worked for a while but all the vibration and kickback from the wheels goes and eventually wears the interference fit joint between the outer steel stube and cast aluminium pinion section. All because I didn't do the mount properly in the first place.

So I fixed that and I'm back to runner mounts and the feel is so much better

After giving it some thought I decided not to move the mounting brackets.

On the plus side(maybe) I also removed the stock mounts from the donor car thinking it would make it easier to install the unit in the sterling. Took about 30 minutes to drill out the spot welds. Of course the engine was already out of the donor car which made it easier. I don't think it could have been done if the engine was still in the car
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