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Old 12-01-2014, 12:22 PM
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In GEX's case, the rebuilds give you used parts that are mismatched, worn bearings, worn oil pumps, you name it. One guy even got an engine with two different case halves, drilled for two different size pistons. GEX in the '60's used to be good. Not so much in the last couple decades.

Hell, I spent $6K on my T4, even with the core. As a long block. What I got in return was a fully drilled (oil galleys), flushed, clearanced, shuffle-pinned case (Porsche block) with new German bearings, balanced new German rods and pistons, new upgraded cam, new crank, rebuilt heads with all new valve gear, new valves, port and polish everywhere, shaped chambers... I had over $3K just in parts (granted, T4 parts are more expensive than T1), and the rest was the build.

A good T1 from CB Performance, say an 1835, will run close to $4K or a little over depending on the options. But I also know that it comes with a guarantee and bulletproof tech support. Like I mentioned to Peter in another thread, I'm not an engine guy. I don't pretend to be one and I know my limits. I can check just about anything, but I don't have the time or space to build my own. I'd rather defer to the experts for that so I can gripe to them if something isn't right.

That said, I have bought a couple engines off Samba from a couple people that were selling used. One was a Gene Berg unit (an 1835) that had all the go-fast goodies on it for my buggy. Guy sold it as a complete motor less the carbs and generator and said it was a low mile engine. I doubted that, but when I got it the thing was a clean as could be, compression was spot-on, and it ran like a top after I got the carbs tuned in (that I had sitting in the garage). Still running as far as I know as the car has changed hands several times. Total cost in? About $900 with the shipping from California, where the seller was. If you know what to look for and ask the right questions, there are deals to be had out there!
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Old 12-01-2014, 05:27 PM
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Thanks for the great responses. I am by no means an engine guy, I can do minimal maintance and that's about it. That's part of the reason i want to make sure I get a reliable motor. I did hear back from my friend that's going over my motor and he said the the cylinders, pistons, all look great so rebuilding is an option. So now I'm wondering if I have the electrical skill to go the Subaru route. The rest of the set up seems strait forward but the wiring looks like a nightmare. Everything I read said to get the harness and ecu with the motor would having to source them be a deal braker? There's a semi local guy with a Ej20 motor with adaptor plate for a good price but it's missing the ecu and part of the harness.

I'm not aposed to rebuilding the 1600 but the idea of the Subaru with a/c, added reliability, accessibility of parts and enough power to make the car more fun is appealing
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Old 12-01-2014, 05:36 PM
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No it wouldn't.
However, getting the ecu and especially the harness with the engine is a huge plus (no searching for it later).
If you know what year/model/USDM or JDM the engine came from, then you know where you can look for the missing pieces.
The wiring looks worse than it is.
For the price of that motor, clutch,flywheel, and adapter, you are getting the motor for free (basically). So in that its probably a very good deal.
There were several years of subarus sold here in the states that used that motor. You might be able to use the ECU and harness out of one of them.

IF you decide to go subaru, I have both JDM, and USDM manuals. SO if you need any help deciphering the difference between the two I can help.

Let me know

Last edited by ydeardorff; 12-01-2014 at 05:46 PM.
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Old 12-01-2014, 05:49 PM
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Thanks I'll probably take you up on that, I'll call the guy when I land (inflight wifi = greatest invention ever), and get those questions answered. If I buy it I may have to stop by Dave's while I'm out that way to get some parts, I've had my eye on a set of his side skirts
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Old 12-01-2014, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerBEH View Post
Thanks for the great responses. I am by no means an engine guy, I can do minimal maintance and that's about it. That's part of the reason i want to make sure I get a reliable motor. I did hear back from my friend that's going over my motor and he said the the cylinders, pistons, all look great so rebuilding is an option. So now I'm wondering if I have the electrical skill to go the Subaru route. The rest of the set up seems strait forward but the wiring looks like a nightmare. Everything I read said to get the harness and ecu with the motor would having to source them be a deal braker? There's a semi local guy with a Ej20 motor with adaptor plate for a good price but it's missing the ecu and part of the harness.

I'm not aposed to rebuilding the 1600 but the idea of the Subaru with a/c, added reliability, accessibility of parts and enough power to make the car more fun is appealing
From the info you've posted on your skills IMO you would be better off staying with the VW.

One thing you'll have to know for parts for the Subaru is the year that the engine is and what it came out of. That can be found by the serial number thats stamped on the block.

The 2.2 and the 2.5 show up all the time in the pick a part yards here. The 2.0 is very popular and I can't say when the last time I saw one of those so getting parts may be a pain unless you get the whole car, which I would suggest getting if possible. It will save you time and money

The swap is not for the faint of heart. It requires alot of fabrication
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Old 12-01-2014, 09:21 PM
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Pretty much what I've been saying since you bought it Brian - run what ya brung and make your upgrades later if need be. Sounds like the engine you have is fine as-is (why rebuild something that doesn't apparently need it?), so why not get the car on the road sooner and have fun with it?
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Old 12-01-2014, 10:15 PM
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Rick your the voice of reason

If i do that I think the engines is going back completely stock (except for big fan, oil filter, etc). It has a weber 40 and the tall manifold. I was told it would hesitate too much with the electronic ignition that's on it. I keep thinking that if I stay VW I have to go dual carb but I guess that's not true. Anyone have a stock carb and dual port manifold laying around? Or know if there's a manifold I can use with this carb that will fit with an alternator?

I have also had a heck of a time finding out how guys are using type dual 3 manifolds on a type 1 (to lower carbs). I've seen a raised linkage for the carbs but can't figure out where to buy it. That's part of the reason I gave up on that I don't want to cut the body.

P.s. This picture is the reason I have to change the push rod tubs, thanks PO.....
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Old 12-02-2014, 08:35 AM
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Look at this page: Linkage & Accessories

6447 Dual Weber 44 IDF Kit - fits Type-3 Dual Port
6430 Dual Weber 34mm ICT Kit - Dual Port Type-3 Fast Back & Square Back

You don't really need dual throat Webers. A set of ICT's will wake up the engine just fine and be easier to tune. If you do decide to go with dual throat Webers, try to find good rebuilt Italian ones or the newer Spanish versions. I bought the Spanish DCN's and they seem to be a good quality.. though I actually haven't taken them apart yet. Steer clear of the MX (Chinese) series Webers... crap all the way around.

As for the push rod tubes... if they're dented that's ok, so long as they aren't interfering with the push rod itself.

And you could probably sell that carb and intake manifold to get back some of the money spent....
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Old 12-02-2014, 12:09 PM
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Might be a little out of your way, but these guys come recommended from the local VW circuit. If I had decided to stick with a VW motor instead of going electric, I would have bought a performance engine from them and just dropped it in.

Sundance Bug & Buggy Inc. 813.752.4207 Sells Air Cooled VW Bug Parts, Baja Bug Parts, Dune Buggy Parts, VW Engine Rebuilds, VW Suspension & VW Performance Parts

You can probably shoot them any questions from their Facebook page.
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sunda...00551343331733
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Old 12-04-2014, 12:36 AM
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Well the Subaru motor is out for now the good deal looks more and more like a mess. Plus nikki seem sold on the poor mans (beer cooler) a/c.....

Question on the dual carbs. If I get empi Hpmx 40 is there any company that sells a complete kit that includes the type 3 manifolds and the raised linkage so it clears the alternator? From what I remember reading the dual carbs with type 1 manifolds are too tall right? I thought that was why the holes get cut in the body or is there another reason (what I don't want to do)? Will they clear but the filter can't be removed without removing carb or motor?

Sorry If I asked this before I just couldn't find it in previous posts.

Pritty much want to build the motor below (minus exhaust) just want to make sure it will fit. I think this has type 1 manifolds.
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