I'm looking for some insight. I have a 1600 dual port I was planing on using on sterling 420. I got into the motor and I'm looking at about $1500 to ad a set of empi 40 dual carbs, clean up paint, tins, wires, pushrods/tubs, and some other ods and ends. After all that I'd end up with a running motor I don't know too much about (miles, maintenance, etc). This came up because there is no way the motor ran in its current configuration and even though it has compression I have some concerns about it. The car itself is going to take me a while to complete, my thought is to save for a new or high quality remanufactored motor and purchase it last.

Have any of you purchased a remanufactored or new 1600-1776 crate motor? I looked at midadlantic motors and some samba ads to get an idea. I'm looking for recomendations of where to go, maybe what to look at and price ranges to expect. I know the sky's the limit but I'm looking for a reliable, semi budget friendly option.

Thanks in advance

Brian

Ive never bought anything from this company. But I know they had some hefty advertising in most of the VW mags.

Rebuilt Performance VW Air Cooled Engines
A turn key motor is about 3600 plus core and shipping.

i got my turn key 1835cc from mofoco.com

yeah i may have bitched about their customer service, it took 6-9 months to get my engine when they advertise 6-8 weeks. they ended up haing alot of employee issues (retiring,, firing) and then a slew of manufacture defaults coming from the factory that set them back.

in the end they compensated me with a complete chromed out engine.

Run - don't hide - from GEX. Do not ever buy anything from them. Ever.

As for the current engine.. all that you want to do to it is easily done at home, even the push rod tubes. There are quite a few local builders that can build you an engine using yours as a core, but you would still be spending more than the $1500. Stay away from the EMPI carbs (HMX, HPX series specifically). IDA/IDF won't fit under the deck without cutting a hole for the air cleaners (I can't remember if yours was already cut)?

There is a whole lot you can do Brian, and I've got resources that can help you get it done. If you want me to stop up and help you go through the engine and your concerns, that's an easy thing to do. Checking flywheel end play is easy, replacing push rod tubes is not complicated. A well built 1776 will probably run you about $3500 with a core; larger displacements of course will add up.

Check it, clean it up and run it. Save up for a replacement as you have fun with the car...

Thanks everyone for the responses. I have some homework to do but this gives me a good place to start.

I've done pushrods tubs before, my concern is more reality and not wanting to worry about pulling the engine for a while once it's in. I also really want to do hydraulic valves that don't require adjusting. It's the extras that adds up. If I want the reliability of a newer engine I may look into a Subaru swap. I mean heck the car is already stripped down to the tunnel it'd be easy to run radiator lines between the drop pans and install a radiator not to mention the future possibility of a/c and power steering. Something else to consider I guess, I was really hoping I'd make out better with the present motor but while the cars apart is a better time to decide then towards the end of the build.

Can't do hydraulics on a Beetle engine normally. You'll need to change the cam and most of the valve train to match. I opted not to put them in my new engine simply because they are not all that reliable - there are stories of them failing (not pumping up, over-pumping, etc) and they severely limit how much power you can produce. Stick with the solid lifters and check the valves as recommended. It only takes a few minutes a side. Besides, it gives you an excuse to check out everything else that's happening with the valves while you're in there!

Shame you guys don't have Stan Pobjoy over there. Well, not really, we rather like him here in Oz.

$3,600 for a rebuilt VW motor!!!???? and you need to give them your core plus shipping.

That's crazy

You can buy a rebuild kit for $330
ACC-C10-5000 - STOCK STROKE ENGINE REBUILD KIT (WITH 100% ALL NEW PARTS) - ALL BEETLE STYLE 15-1600CC ENGINES (SHIPPING CHARGES APPLY)

That's more than what it cost me to rebuild my Subaru engine

Man! I should start a side job rebuilding motors if thats what their getting


So just to be fair, what do you get for that hefty price. anyone know??

Seeing the work you do, I'd take you up on that. It's crazy how expensive some of that stuff is. Expressly since som of those prices are stock then your adding 2-500 for dual carbs, 100-200 for alternator, etc.

As much as I'd like to use what I have the Subaru option is looking better and better....

Ive only seen one "crate" vw motor purchased and installed by a local VW shop years ago.
The guy had ordered a pre-built and tested motor from a VW engine seller. The shop installed it, and they spent the better part of the day trying to get it tuned right. Ill never forget the smell of a new VW motor getting "broken in" No pun there. But it smelled like hot metal. I figure it was probably set too lean or something, but I know they spent one hell of a long time just trying to get the Pre-run, Pre-tested motor to run right.

For me personally, I like the simplicity of a motor that manages itself, and tells you whats wrong, when it goes wrong (before damage occurs usually). Bugs are fun, no arguing that,..

For me in the end it was always the hassle of constantly having to be under, wrenching on them that did them in for me. The Subaru option gives that practicality to everyday use, without the need for carrying around a tool kit to the VW chassis, Something it really needs. Increased power, reliability, tons of spares, tons of performance upgrades,... the list goes on... and on,... and on...

A Subaru transplant can be done often for less than $2500 including the mount, adapter, and radiator. A ton of JDM engines are easy to get with less than 40-50K miles on them. Harness, ECU and everything ready to go... The flipped diff kit isnt necessary as seen in Bretts build. It was an option I chose. You could use your stock VW tranny if you like...