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Old 09-14-2012, 11:45 PM
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Default FINNALLY SPRUNG FOR NEW CARB

Volkswagen Single 44IDF Carb Genuine Weber Carburetor Conversion Kit WK31

GUYS those of you that are experienced with webers is this a good reliable set up with a bit of power
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FINNALLY SPRUNG FOR NEW CARB-kgrhqqokjqe6v-bocnybonfy5-izq-60_1.jpg  
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Old 09-15-2012, 10:06 AM
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That will be fine for a stocker 1600. Being a "genuine" Weber is a little bit of a stretch, since they are now being produced in Spain. You'll want to disassemble the entire carb when you receive it and cear out any flashing and grit which tends to be prevalent in these models. Take special care with the internal passageways to make sure they are clear.
The only other issue I can see that you may have is clearance to the decklid; with the air cleaner in place there may be some interference - IDA/IDF's are taller than you'd expect.
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Old 09-16-2012, 10:52 PM
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are the velocity stacks necessary or can I run a thinner air cleaner if necessary.

These are not the empi copies is that what you meant. These guys claim to be the north american distributors for weber.

Are all webers cheaply made now.

You all told me not to buy used because I would be buying somebody else's problem. Now you tell me the new ones are junk which is it.
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Old 09-17-2012, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
are the velocity stacks necessary
Yes
The engine will run without them but you'll loose HP and the engine may run rough without them.
Velocity stakes smooth out the air flow into the carbs among other things.


Quote:
can I run a thinner air cleaner if necessary
A smaller filter may not flow the CFM needed for the engine to breath right at WOT(wide open throttle)

Have you checked to see if they will clear the lid?? I take it that you don't want to cut up your lid. If your good at fiberglassing you can modify the lid to work maybe(don't know your clearance issues)

Brett
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Old 09-17-2012, 07:52 AM
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There are two versions of Webers now: the Spanish made ones which are still labeled as "Weber" and the Chinese MPX. The Spanish versions are a little more "finished", but still need to be disassembled and cleaned. The MPX versions are junk, the Spanish ones are fine. All of the aftermarket carburetors have issues with casting material and grit in the chambers - it's just good practice to make sure that everything is clean before you install them.

As for your clearance.. Brett's correct, you do need the velocity stacks, though they don't need to be as high as the ones pictured. Fit it up and see what clearances you have.
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Old 09-23-2012, 10:30 PM
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well it was clean. It fits under the deck lid. Now I need help choosing jets for it.

It idles but not smooth after warm it wants to stumble and die. And then there is the hesitation when you first throttle it. but then it runs like a cat with its tale on fire.

Also having a little trouble setting the linkage correctly, that's not the big deal.

I was not going to run the heater tubes but I think part of the issue is fuel icing.

Does anybody have a jetting chart or can give me a good baseline of what jetting should be for a stock 1600.

I know every engine is different but having a base line to start from would really help.

WEBER 44 IDF

Factory
Sizes

Single
Carb

Dual
Carbs

AIR CORRECTION

1.75

1.65

2.00

EMULSION TUBE

F-11



MAIN JET

1.35

1.60

1.55

PUMP JET

.50

.80

.50

IDLE JET

.50

.65

.60

VENTURII

36mm



NOTE: Drill 2mm Hole in each Throttle Valve of Single Carb


I found this but not sure if this is for a stock 1600 or not
and not sure what or why or how to drill the 2mm hole....ect
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Last edited by delbertinie; 09-23-2012 at 10:49 PM.
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Old 09-24-2012, 09:36 AM
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Information is from a Haynes Weber Carburator Workshop Manual


VW 1600 (VW 2000)

Carb type 40 IDF 18/19 (44 IDF 38/39)

Chock size 28 (36)

Aux Venturi 4.5 (4.5)

Main Jet 1.15 (1.70)

Emulsion Tube F11 (F11)

Air Corrector Jet 2.00 (2.00)

Idle Jet 0.50 (0.50)

Accelerator Pump Jet 0.50 (0.55)

Accelerator Pump inlet
Valve with Exaust orifice 0.50 (0.80)

Needle Valve 1.75 (1.75)
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Old 09-24-2012, 09:58 AM
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The 2mm hole is a cheat to get more air flowing at idle. The air bypass circuit is built to do that; try backing those screws out about a half turn. We also need to know what is currently in the carb to tell which way to go with it. Generally, the rough idle and a stumble on acceleration is either a) not enough airflow (hence the air bypass) b) idle jets not getting enough fuel (corrected with the mixture screw) or c) too small an idle jet.

I can't stress enough reading on how to tune these things. Some great information here:
CB Performance - Weber Jetting Chart and Carburetor Parts
Jetting Information Worksheet (a worksheet to be sent with your engine info)
IDF/DCOE Adjustments Addendum to lean Best Idle
Carburetor Setup and Lean Best Idle Adjustment
And buy this book: CB Performance - Online Catalog
It is one of the single best resources out there!
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