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Old 03-20-2017, 09:18 AM
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Glad to see you back at it Phil!

I hope the wife is doing well and seeing improvements daily!
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  #232 (permalink)  
Old 03-20-2017, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by ratrog64 View Post
Glad to see you back at it Phil!

I hope the wife is doing well and seeing improvements daily!
Its David btw

and yes there are daily improvements with the wife, albeit the nagging has started with them also

In about 9 weeks she should be able to start to try and walk again, then hopefully I can spend less time as a carer and more time on car bits...... however my annual pilgrimage to the UK in May for the biggest kit car show in Europe has been cancelled due to my duties here which I'm pretty unhappy about as there should be a good line up of freshly restored Nova's there this year
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Old 03-20-2017, 04:56 PM
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Its David btw

and yes there are daily improvements with the wife, albeit the nagging has started with them also

In about 9 weeks she should be able to start to try and walk again, then hopefully I can spend less time as a carer and more time on car bits...... however my annual pilgrimage to the UK in May for the biggest kit car show in Europe has been cancelled due to my duties here which I'm pretty unhappy about as there should be a good line up of freshly restored Nova's there this year
I know its David, I don't know where the Phil came from.

I'm glad to hear she is doing well, the nagging is just a reward for your service!

I always check in on the Nova site and there are a few cars I'd like to see for my self in person. There is always next year ..... hopefully .......
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Old 03-21-2017, 02:23 AM
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Well I couldnít resist the temptation to pull the mold, I figured most of the parts had been done a long time ago with only the last piece being a couple of days old.



The sides and back popped off relatively easily, and surprisingly so did the top which surprised me. It turns out the area where the PVA pulled away wasnít nearly as bad as I feared. I guess I filled enough gel coat and resin in to fill most of the void. It will still need some filling though.



The front sections however fought me every step of the way to get the mold off. The dash buck didnít survive that well and bits that were basically fibreglass filler and bondo split in the process. One lesson I learnt was to make sure you cut back the mold right to the part, or even further shortening the part as these are the areas which clung on for dear life!

I have a few areas where air bubbles that were behind the gel coat caused the gel coat to break leaving voids, not too many though all though some bits are hard to get to in the narrow recesses.



So I have a question, how best to fill these areas and what to fill them with? Gel coat and sand it back? For some of them I was thinking of just using candle wax as this is probably a one time mold? Thoughts or ideas anyone?

Overall I pretty happy with the mold and the learning process, its far from perfect but could also have been a lot worse.

ratrog64 and frodoz737 like this.
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Old 03-21-2017, 09:44 AM
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Congrats, You did it!
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Old 03-21-2017, 09:48 AM
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So I have a question, how best to fill these areas and what to fill them with? Gel coat and sand it back? For some of them I was thinking of just using candle wax as this is probably a one time mold? Thoughts or ideas anyone


Another question, do you guys always put tissue down as your first layer on the gel coat? If so is this to make it easier to confirm to tighter angles and ensure no air voids before laying the thicker glass fibre. I had thought about trying this but wasn't sure doing it on my newly made mold was the best time to experiment. but having said that I do have some narrow deep recesses that may benefit from this approach if it works?

Brett and Roger, what do you guys think about my two question?
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Old 03-21-2017, 07:25 PM
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If i have small repairs I do use gelcoat to fill them it. A little tip is after you fill the hole with gelcoat put a small piece of masking tape over it to seal it so it will cure and not be sticky. You can also use gelcoat that has wax in it to self seal. Some imperfections I do just use clay to fill the void especially if the part will get a little massage prior to prime and paint.

As far as laying up your part. I always use mat as my skin coat or chop from the gun. Cloth tends to print through the gelcoat. I'm not sure what you mean by tissue. For the tight areas you can tear the mat as big or small as you need to fit anywhere.
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Old 03-21-2017, 09:25 PM
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I'm not sure what you mean by tissue.
Fibreglass Surface Tissue looks just like normal tissue that you blow your nose on, you can't see any pattern or weave and its about as thick as a normal tissue, so bends to tight angles better that 1 1/2 oz matt
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Old 03-21-2017, 11:58 PM
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So I have a question, how best to fill these areas and what to fill them with? Gel coat and sand it back? For some of them I was thinking of just using candle wax as this is probably a one time mold? Thoughts or ideas anyone


Another question, do you guys always put tissue down as your first layer on the gel coat? If so is this to make it easier to confirm to tighter angles and ensure no air voids before laying the thicker glass fibre. I had thought about trying this but wasn't sure doing it on my newly made mold was the best time to experiment. but having said that I do have some narrow deep recesses that may benefit from this approach if it works?

Brett and Roger, what do you guys think about my two question?


Since this is a one time thing and durability is not an issue if candle wax will work then use that. There are other ways to fix the problems but the candle wax would be the easiest and cheapest, I've used mold release wax to fill in small voids also.

I've heard a few stories about the use of tissue or as it's called here deck cloth.

First is that its put down on the gel coat so the next layers of glass don't bleed through, and the second story is its used if gel coat is omitted.

To fill in areas that you can't lay the glass in I've used a mixture of glass beads and resin and mix that into a paste that or mix up some glass fibers and pack that in. I then fill the area in to a point where laying the glass will conform to the curves.

Also if your having trouble getting the glass mat to lay flat on tight curves, pealing it apart to get a thinner section of glass works. Of course buying a lighter fiberglass works also. Once its built up to a point where you can lay a heavier glass over it you can start with that.

I'm assuming during all this glass work your using laminating resin and not finishing resin.

The difference is finishing resin has wax in it and laminating resin doesn't.

Use only laminating resin or you risk the chance of the layers of glass coming apart.

The wax acts as a sealer. If you where to use a finishing resin while your where laying up the glass you would have to sand the glass between layers to remove the wax.

If I forgot something let me know
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Old 03-22-2017, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Brett Proctor View Post
To fill in areas that you can't lay the glass in I've used a mixture of glass beads and resin and mix that into a paste that or mix up some glass fibers and pack that in.
I did think about using fibrelgass filler to achieve a similar effect as mixing beads and glass fibres



Quote:
Originally Posted by Brett Proctor View Post

I'm assuming during all this glass work your using laminating resin and not finishing resin.

Actually until I saw a similar comment on the Euro Nova site I didn't know what the difference was, but you explained it well. I have been using General Purpose Polyester Resin (no idea if it has wax, will talk to the supplier when I go to buy more) and have had no issues so far with separation. I did just google to read about the differences and read in one place that if you are doing several layers the heat generated allows the resin to cure regardless of the wax content. So maybe that's how I have been getting away with it so far
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