Cimbria SS

[vpogv]

First set. Has a more old school sport vibe where the 2nd set seems like you would need to modernize it a bit to match the wheels.

 

[Nic]

18" Modern. I dont think you'd have to change the body style at all.

 

[ratrog64]

I think each wheel does its own thing. The older rims give it more of a hot rod look where as the newer wheel gives it a more modern sports car look. Personally, I like them both a lot but would likely go old school if it were mine.

 

[Peter]

Both look good, at least you haven't gone for ricers stupid ultra low profile like 30s.
Old school gets my vote though.
*thumbs up*

 

[sector]

Thank you all for your feedback. I am also leaning toward old school look but still a bit undecided. I guess I can make final decision once the car is complete.

 

[Peter]

Thank you all for your feedback. I am also leaning toward old school look but still a bit undecided. I guess I can make final decision once the car is complete.

As long as circumference is the same you can chop and change to suit your mood on the day. *hmmm**sigh*

 

[sector]

Looks like I have a major set back with my build. No matter what I tried to do, I could not get the driver's rear wheel properly aligned. The wheel kept on rubbing the fender when I lowered the car to my preferred height. And even Porsche 944 trailing arms that have additional adjustments were unable to remediate the issue. Turns out that the VW frame I was using had a bent torsion housing due to previous accidents or misuse, causing the rear wheel to be pushed back and twist out.


The other side is good.



I have two options, put the chassis on the frame machine and try to straighten the rear end (torsion housing) or weld in another torsion housing (find a good used one, aftermarket or from Porsche 944 to match my trailing arms). I did noticed that torsion bar on the bent side is very difficult to remove due to binding, hence the reason for leaning toward replacement. What are your toughts?

 

[letterman7]

If it's indeed bent to the point the torsion tube (more accurately, the torsion bar) is binding to the point you can't get it out, then the only choice is to A) replace that side or B) find another chassis. You could straighten it, but my fear is the torsion bar would eventually snap where it was bent. Alternately, you could replace both bars (have to be replaced in pairs) and straighten the tube/trailing arm assembly. You'll need a very accurate shop to pull everything back into place.

 

[sector]

Just to be clear, the torsion bars are straight, they are not original to this chassis. Both torsion bars where checked at the machine shop and they are in spec for staighness and concentricity. The torsion tube (torsion housing) is bent 3/8" toward the back of the car, which translates to 1.0" offest at the wheel.

 

[Peter]

Looks like you have a lot more to do. best of luck with it.*thumbs up*
Old school would be to strip out tube, insert bloody great bar and bend to front using chain and ratchet.

 

[Peter]

Looks like I have a major set back with my build. No matter what I tried to do, I could not get the driver's rear wheel properly aligned. The wheel kept on rubbing the fender when I lowered the car to my preferred height. And even Porsche 944 trailing arms that have additional adjustments were unable to remediate the issue. Turns out that the VW frame I was using had a bent torsion housing due to previous accidents or misuse, causing the rear wheel to be pushed back and twist out.
View attachment 9303

The other side is good.

View attachment 9304

I have two options, put the chassis on the frame machine and try to straighten the rear end (torsion housing) or weld in another torsion housing (find a good used one, aftermarket or from Porsche 944 to match my trailing arms). I did noticed that torsion bar on the bent side is very difficult to remove due to binding, hence the reason for leaning toward replacement. What are your toughts?

Congratulations, you have discovered that our cars, all of them, are asymmetric, The rear wheels are always a problem, I lined up my fronts and then sorted out the rear by shaping

 

[sector]

So I've decided to get rid of VW chassis all together and build a full tubular chassis that will accept a bolt on suspension from Porsche 944. I scored a low mileage suspension from 944 turbo that came complete with everything including sway bar and brand new set of koni coilovers. I am currently working on the chassis.


I am also looking into options for Independent Front Suspension (IFS). The main decision is to figure out if I should go with production vehicle option such as from Toyota Supra, Mazda Miata/RX8 or hot rod option from Heidts, TCI. Suspension from production vehicles would end up costing 1/2 the price of custom hod rod type suspension but may not be ideal due to track width.

I did pick up suspension from Mazda RX8 and it looks very promising. Its nice and compact with aluminum control arms and power electric steering. But need to check if track width will work for my setup (wheel offset).

 

[sector]

This is the suspension support frame



Porsche suspension will bolt to this frame at 8 existing mounting point.

Next I will be working on the engine cradle.

 

[sector]

I am tired as a dog. Been working on the chassis this weekend. Here is what I was able to accomplish today.









Still need to add center tunnel and some gussets for additional stifneess. Once that is done I will bolt on a Porsche 944 suspension and drop the body for a fit check.

 

[letterman7]

Looking good. My only concern is mixing wheel PCD's front and rear. I hate using adapters...


If you go with the Mazda suspension, there is nothing stopping you from splitting that subframe in half and welding in the appropriate extensions (if needed). Power steering racks are easy to find to fit.

 

[Peter]

When building in an engine gearbox unit it is very easy to overlook the maintenance side of things so make sure you can extract the unit if needs be rather than having to disassemble the rear end and that you can reach all the service points. Even manufacturers cock that up, in order to do anything on the Mercedes W168/9 the whole front has to be dropped out, just to change the starter motor for instance or change a clutch. *hmmm*

 

[sector]

Removal of the drivetrain and access to parts will be no different than VW chassis with Kefer bars.

 

[sector]

Small progress but progress nevertheless. Welded center tunnel in place and spent the rest of the available time cutting out gussets. Those small parts take so much time. Also need to flip the chassis to weld the bottom seams.

 

[sector]

Bolted rear suspension to the chassis and installed drivetrain for a fit check.

 

[sector]

Once again, dropped the body onto the chassis for a fit check and experimented with different style wheels. I really like the color and design of brass color wheel but 20's might be too big for this car. Found similar wheels in size 18 and thinking about getting them, but not until I fully complete the chassis.





Currently took it all apart again, getting the rear section of the chassis ready for paint. Once that is done I will move onto the front suspension.