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Cimbria SS

sector

Member
I was entertaining to go for a clean look like below

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sector

Member
If I am going to maintain pop up headlights on my Cimbria, can someone advice which vehicle has the most compact and easily adaptable pop up headlights mechanism (Fiero, MR2, RX7, Corvette, Miata, etc)?
 
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Peter

Active member
If I am going to maintain pop up headlights on my Cimbria, can someone advice which vehicle has the most compact and easily adaptable pop up headlights mechanism (Fiero, MR2, RX7, Corvette, Miata, etc)?

Porsche 928 style on the Eagle SS? Just a 32mm bar through the front area with a single lifter motor. Maybe, possibly, perhaps, *hmmm* -confused* *idea didn't work*
 

sector

Member
I would prefer not to have any cross bars as I will have radiator in the front and would like to keep that area unobstructed.
 

islandman

Member
well you wouldn't want my solution, Triumph TR7 motors and custom light pods (30 year old motors).

Any motor and imagination can work
 

Brett Proctor

Well-known member
If I am going to maintain pop up headlights on my Cimbria, can someone advice which vehicle has the most compact and easily adaptable pop up headlights mechanism (Fiero, MR2, RX7, Corvette, Miata, etc)?


In my journeys through the wrecking yards I've come across several units that looked to have potential, but because I had no plans to install them I never really got into them.

One thing that I saw that could cause concern as to what unit to use is the location and size and design of the adjuster for them. Some take up more room than others
headlightadjust.jpgCelica Headlight.JPG
3000GT headlight.JPG

Also the opening and closing angle of the unit might be an issue. Don't know how much of an adjustment there is for that.

Honda has a few cars that the units looked to have potential.
 

sector

Member
Thanks for the feedback. That was my concern as well (location of the adjuster and tilt angle). Based on my research seems like 86-92 RX7, & MR2 might be a good fit.
 
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sector

Member
Encapsulated steel frames on the doors in 4 layer of 1 1/4 oz fiberglass. Fit check looks good. Next will be working on the hinges.
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Also slimmed down subaru harness (removed Air Bag, ABS and other unnecessary auxiliary items) and checked that engine still runs and gauge cluster functions properly. Next step will be to extend some wires and wrap up the harness.

Question: what is the best option for the rear disc brake conversion?
1) 944 brake conversion
2) subabrakes conversion from subarugears.com
3) CP or aircooled.net conversion kit
4) other
Please advice.
 

ratrog64

Well-known member
My disc brakes were bought from CIP. I like the vented rotors and I could get the 5 lug Chevy pattern I wanted. I did get the better mounting brackets, all the bearings etc.. I did not get e-brake rears because I am using an electric e-brake. They also had a bigger German dual master cylinder though it was not cheap $200. All said I will have about 2k in the 4 wheel disc conversion. Not installed or used yet so no opinion on how well it all goes together. I don't foresee any issues. Will be installed on my #310 car.
 

Peter

Active member
Running vented discs with Wilwood 4 pot calipers up front and Bugpak disc conversion at rear, very similar to Audi/VW with handbrake, (connect to your E-brake). I would love an electric handbrake but unfortunately in Europe we have to have an EMERGENCY brake not a parking brake that is mechanical and independent of the main system, so no hydraulic lock levers.
brakecaliperrearview.jpg


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sector

Member
Finished two versions of the harness. One is complete with all subaru electronic functions (climate controls, lights, gauges, wipers, etc.) and the other is stand alone engine only harness. Did the second one mostly because I took over someone else unfinished harness and finished it up properly. All that is left to do is wire in code eliminator board from smallcars and wrap them up. I will be selling engine only harness once it's wrap up. After completing the harness I now understand why vendors charge for conversion service around $800 to do engine only harness and $2,000 for all functions harness. And that price does not include the harness itself which is to be supplied by the customer. I probably spend around 40 hours on engine only harness and double that amount on all functions harness. But I've learned so much in the process so all is good.

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islandman

Member
Oh that looks all so familiar, I haven't got as far as you have. I have stripped out all the unnecessary circuits but want to do a test fire of the engine before I start the shortening and lengthening process.

I agree totally on the time it takes, just stripping off all the protective covering alone took me a couple of days work!
 

sector

Member
Before you start cutting any wires I would advice reading build threads and electrical section at Factory Five Racing 818: The New Factory Five 818

Since those cars use subaru drivetrain you'll learn a great deal of info. I've learned that subaru wiring is actually wraps onto itself and can be fully unwrapped by cutting only few wires. As can be observed from my full harness photo, the two lower legs of wire bundles (going to and from beige colored fuse box) were originally a single bundle. Separating them allows you to keep battery at the front and entire lighting system without extending a single wire. So in the end, the only wires that would need extention are 3 wires for alternator and 2 wires for AC compressor.
 
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islandman

Member
Before you start cutting any wires I would advice reading build threads and electrical section at Factory Five Racing 818: The New Factory Five 818

Since those cars use subaru drivetrain you'll learn a great deal of info. I've learned that subaru wiring is actually wraps onto itself and can be fully unwrapped by cutting only few wires. As can be observed from my full harness photo, the two lower legs of wire bundles (going to and from beige colored fuse box) were originally a single bundle. Separating them allows you to keep battery at the front and entire lighting system without extending a single wire. So in the end, the only wires that would need extention are 3 wires for alternator and 2 wires for AC compressor.


Thanks, sounds like you may have saved me some issues down the line. The 818 forum is big, I don't suppose you could help point me to the specific threads you found most useful ?:D
 

sector

Member
I did not book mark any particular posts. Looked up info on as needed bases via forum's search engine. But if you have any specific questions, don't hesitate to ask via my build thread or yours.
 

islandman

Member
That's a shame, I was looking forward to an easy route :(

What I'm interested to know a bit more about is the wires you cut to remove the loop round H-Shape that the loom is normally in.

Also I'm curious to where you put the two fuse boxes in your car?
 
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sector

Member
1) Red bundle with beige fuse box has all control, gauge cluster and test connectors. It will be located under dash as in subaru vehicle.
2) Blue bundle with black fuse box has battery connectors and all front lights. It will be located under hood next to the battery as in the subaru vehicle.
3) Green bundle has ECU, fuel pump controller and relays (main, fuel pump and headlight). It will be located behind driver's seat.
4) Orange bundle has all engine connectors and taillights. It will be located in the engine compartment.
5) Yellow bundle is what needs to be extended to connect to alternator and AC compressor, but like I said before it's only few wires so I'll do them when harness is in the car.

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Unfortunately I did not document my process. But once you lay out the harness as shown in my photo it will be clear which few wires must be cut to unfold the harness.

Also to keep this whole process organized I've used velcro straps and tape to hold bundles together and weeded out one unnecessary wire at a time. Keeping bundles organized will help you avoid this (saw this in one of the build threads):
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islandman

Member
I'm trying to reconcile your photo with the only photo I have of my loom, which unfortunately I don't have access to right now,



I am assuming the wires cut must be the ones I have drawn the red line through to enable you to lay the loom out without the closed loop. If so what do you do with these wires, extend them then reroute them to take the long way back via the other portion of the loom and rejoin them?

Another observation is that the distance between the fuse box with the relays and the brown fuse box on my loom seems far greater than it does on yours. Did you shorten your wired already?
 

sector

Member
*humpf*No don't do that. That portion remains uncut. Snake those connectors out of the bundle in the direction shown by the arrow. I found helpful removing pins (one at a time only) from certain connectors whenever wires get tangled. This way I eliminated unnecessary cutting and resoldering. Much easier just to remove and reinstall the pin.

Your harness does look a little different from mine. No I did not shorten or extended any wire bundles only few individual wires. I have 2002 WRX harness. Not sure which setup you have as I didn't see it in your build. But the logic should be the same.

1) Start at the ECU (circled in magenta color) and passenger side engine connectors (circled in orange). Move engine connectors to the left of ECU. This will become your outmost rear point.

2) Now snake all engine connectors for the driver's side and transmission connectors (circled in blue) and bring them toward ECU. You literally only need to cut and extend 2 or 3 wires to do that. Now you will have all engine connections in the same spot.

3) Move black fuse box in the direction shown by the arrow. No cutting should be required. This will become your outmost front point.

4) The rest of connectors (diagnostic, flash memory, etc) I've moved toward beige fuse box to be located under dash.
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Even though the overall harness is longer then it needs to be, I've decided not to shorten it and just make few service loops where needed to ensure overall harness integrity remains unchanged.

In the end I've end up resoldering less then 10 wires. Most of those had to do with warning light elimination: ABS, Airbag and gauge cluster light (I've eliminated integrated module and had to ground one of the wires to maintain cluster backlight).
Hope this helps.
 
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