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Cimbria SS

Peter

Active member
I can understand that. Just remember the weight issue. You don't want it too stiff or it will bounce all over the road.
 

sector

Member
Red9 is not worth the money. It's designed with build in 2" drop, so it's not ideal for our cars therefore it does require modification. Getting it to US through exchange rate and customs would cost over $4k. That is way more than I spent on my entire rolling chassis. Plus for custom chassis it would require one to keep VW Napoleon hat which makes it difficult to attach tubular chassis.
The fact that other IFS were designed for heavier cars has nothing to do with bouncing. This is purely a combination of Springs and shocks. Many users reported that Red9 required many iterations to get the ride dialed in for Nova cars (due to them being very light at the front). In addition with Red9 you have a fixed track width so spacers are unavoidable unless you luck out and your wheel offset matches, which is unlikely since it was designed for a bug. It might be a decent option on your side of the pond but for us Red9 makes no sense.
 

Peter

Active member
Red9 is not worth the money. It's designed with build in 2" drop, so it's not ideal for our cars therefore it does require modification. Getting it to US through exchange rate and customs would cost over $4k. That is way more than I spent on my entire rolling chassis. Plus for custom chassis it would require one to keep VW Napoleon hat which makes it difficult to attach tubular chassis.
The fact that other IFS were designed for heavier cars has nothing to do with bouncing. This is purely a combination of Springs and shocks. Many users reported that Red9 required many iterations to get the ride dialed in for Nova cars (due to them being very light at the front). In addition with Red9 you have a fixed track width so spacers are unavoidable unless you luck out and your wheel offset matches, which is unlikely since it was designed for a bug. It might be a decent option on your side of the pond but for us Red9 makes no sense.
Understood. and as we say, "Each unto their own", hope whatever you choioe will work well. I am not sure what chassis you are using so can't really comment further than regarding standard VW floor/chassis. Changing anything on that HERE would require an independent vehicle test costing about $500 and it is very tight but an original chassis with the donor's registration means no test.
 

sector

Member
Small progress this weekend. Tack welded roll bar in place so chassis is now 95% complete and now looks like my 3D model. Need to take off the body to finish welds and prime/paint the chassis.
 

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sector

Member
Took of the body, hopefully for the last time. Now need to remove engine with transmission to finish welds on the chassis and get it ready for paint.
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Fiberglassed in rear inner fender wells. I use vinyl ester which always comes in tan color but when I got it from a different supplier it came in green color. It doesn't really matter since underside and engine bay will be painted black but it does look funny. Need to trim it and sand it smooth.
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Also worked a little on the rear hatch. I am extending Sterling louver to make it fit Cimbria body. So what I did, is cut off rear portion of Cimbria engine cover and fiberglassed it to the Sterling hatch. Now I need to finish top surface.

Marked up location of taillights to see what it would look like.
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farfegnubbin

Site Owner
Staff member
I like it. The extension to the louver section is subtle and tasteful and doesn’t disrupt any important lines. Nice. And I’ve always liked your chassis in the context of the engine you’re using. It’s good to see this one coming along.
 

sector

Member
Drilling holes in the frame for mounting the body and the floor. To maintain stiffness I am welding in a 5/8" O.D. tubing into each hole. This way tubing would not get localized distortion when bolts are tightened. Seems like a simple task but it's very time consuming. Also need to finish up sections that are just tack welded.

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sector

Member
Got tired of cleaning surface rust so decided to prime in sections. Welding in tubes into every mounting hole is very tedious process but definitely worth it in my book. Some photos of the slow progress.
 

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jmd

New member
Just catching up on everyone's builds before posting some of my own updates. This is a rad looking chassis - well done!
 

sector

Member
Lots of small progress but nothing important to post about. The most noticeable visual progress are the welded support bars for Subaru WRX dashboard. It's not fully welded as that will have to be done when it is out of the car. I will need to make end cap for the passenger side but no other mods are required. Plenty of room behind the dash for the AC/heater unit. I will also fabricate a bracket to mount driver's side middle extension to the center console but will cut off the passage side as it encroaching into passenger leg space. The window vents will be a from a subaru existing dash. Overall I am very pleased with how this turned out.
 

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Brett Proctor

Well-known member
Looks like the dash fits real nice.
I know you mentioned at one time what year and model Subaru it came out of but I could you post it again.
 

sector

Member
The dash is from 2002 - 2007 Subaru Impreza. Using this dash will allow me to retain all subaru control functions.
 

farfegnubbin

Site Owner
Staff member
That looks quite believable. Nice work!

I assume that it had to be offset a little to the right. How close is the midline of the dash to the midline of the car? Did you have to offset the steering wheel a little?
 

sector

Member
It's offset by few inches on the passenger side mainly due to subaru having wider center console. The driver's side is dead center including the steering.
 

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Brett Proctor

Well-known member
Just in case you haven't thought about it. It is so much easier (from my experience)to do as much wiring as possible with the body off of the chassis.
I pulled the wiring diagram for that year and I assume your going to use the oem wiring harness and modify it as needed. you have some work ahead of you.
I had the dash and gas tank installed when wiring my car and it made where to locate sensors and running wires to them so much easier.
 

sector

Member
Yeah, the body will be comming off again as the chassis is only primed and does require paint. I will have it in go-kart state, running and driving before the body goes back on it for the final time. The oem harness was modified and tested few years back so not much to do there. All controls were working and I cleared all errors codes related to bypassed emission functions.
 
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