Thanks for posting those photos. They show the raw materials and possibilities.
But those photos are also from a very good angle to show why this modification is
NOT as easy as an adapter plate.
Overall, the modification is possible. And I personally plan to do it some day. So I'm a big fan of the idea.
But just so there isn't any misleading info:
Please, everybody know that this is not an easy modification and that you can't just use/make an adapter. Like Yaughn pointed out, you will have to get creative and modify the front of the Bug chassis a bit.
The problem is that the front beam of the Bug suspension is considerably in FRONT of the centerline of the wheels (by several inches -- see photos). It's almost as if the stock Bug front suspension begins totally in FRONT of the front hubs and then the trailing arms trail backwards several inches to the hub.
And in the Bug front end, the ties rods for the steering are BEHIND where the front beam mounts to the frame.
In the Mustang II front, the main beam is almost in a direct line with the centerline of the wheels -- and the steering is in FRONT of this. What this means is that the Mustang front beam CANNOT be adapted to the stock mounting points on the frame head. Two things can't be in the same place at the same time. If you put the Mustang front end in front of the frame head, it would be many inches too far forward.
Could you weld the Mustang beam with a forward bubble in it to "reach forward" to the stock mount points on the frame head? Well....no. The rack and pinion is there, and it cannot be moved further forward without totally upsetting all the very nice work Ford has done for us regarding steering geometry.
I've put a lot of thought time into this possible modification, and the only way for it to work would be to keep the Mustang II front end pretty much like it is in that picture (except having it narrowed a little, like Yaughn said), and then
CUT BACK THE BOTTOM OF THE BUG FRAME HEAD A FEW INCHES and then modify it as necessary to tie into the Mustang front end.
Now, the good news is that doing so isn't all that impossibly hard. With an angle grinder and about 2 hours, I could have the frame head notched back the necessary several inches. Then I'd do away with any thoughts of bolt points and would just weld the Mustang II front beam right into the big notch-back I'd just made (after measuring and jigging everything VERY carefully.) You'd have to do some careful experiments to determine the vertical position of the Mustang front as well, keeping in mind that it must be the right height WITH the weight of the car on it, which make it rather hard to mock-up. You probably would also have to weld in some diagonal elements to stiffen up the shock towers, but that's not all that hard.
But the pay-off would be HUGE. You'd get a rock-solid (handling wise), modern front suspension with nice rack-and-pinion steering. And yes, it would be heavier than the Bug suspension, but I kinda like that. If the car has a heavier-than-stock rear do to a water-cooled engine, etc., it might be nice to have a dash more weight up front, low, between the front wheels.
This is a modification that I've NEVER seen done, and it would be a cool one. I can't take credit for the idea, though, because I had the idea while looking at one of Dave Aliberti's fully custom Sterling chassis at Carlisle last year. He had a Mustang II front on the front of his rear-engine Sterling space frame chassis.
Anyway, one more time:
The Mustang II front suspension CANNOT be adapted to the stock mount points by just an adapter plate. Unfortunately.Yaughn, thanks for starting this thread. After you and I talked the other day, it inspired me to do some research as well, and I learned some interesting things about some of the nice after-market Mustang II front end kits our there. Specifically, I found one company in particular that will make almost any width Mustang II front that you want. More importantly, they make a compelling argument for why NOT to use some of their competitor's products. They feel that there is a right way and a wrong way to change the length of the tie rods. They swear that their kit maintains the correct geometry whereas other kits don't. You can read up on what they say and decide for yourself. I, for one, will probably buy from these guys if/when I attempt the swap. They seem to really know what they're doing.
Mustang II front from HotRodSuperstore
Q and A about Mustang II fronts
Here are a few more sources that look promising:
Mustang II IFS front suspension, Hub to Hub IFS, tubular control arms, crossmembers
Authentic is the perfection in street rod suspension systems, street rod frames, chassis, rearends, parts and accessories designed and manufactured by Jim Messler of Messler Products Company
Mustang II IFS Kits
Zig's Street Rod - Engine Mounts & Crossmembers
Buy Heidt's Mustang II IFS Crossmember Kits at RJay's Speed Shop!
...Actually, there are tons of web sites offering such cross-member kits. Just do a Google search for "Mustang II front suspension kit" and set aside an hour or two for reading. Some offer a narrowed kit (which is necessary). Some don't. Some offer everything hub-to-hub. Some have very raw kits. I assume some do it right, and some to it incorrectly. All of them seem to be pretty darn expensive. But what you are buying is good handling. How much would you pay for a Sterling with no weirdness whatsoever to its steering?
And here is one Specifically for you, Yaughn. I know you're interested in an adjustable height front that can be raised when parking over bumps and gullies. How cool is this!? A Mustang II front kit with adjustable air shocks.
Progressive Automotive, mustang II IFS 2 front suspensions
All of the above is very tempting. God that would handle well! And if you were clever about how to tie into the Mustang front end, it MIGHT free up some useful space between the front wall (where your feet are) and the front suspension, which used to be effectively useless space because the Bug tie rods zig-zagged through that space.
Hmmm. Very tempting.