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Brett Proctor

Brett Proctor

Well-known member
Got the other side made today but it will be a few days(or more) before I can make the molds.
 

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Brett Proctor

Brett Proctor

Well-known member
vpogv said:
Gosh dangit Brett, I kinda want a set now. That looks awesome. *thumbs up*
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I'll put you on the possible wanting one list.

I want to first see how the first set come out before I make any promises. If there are any issues with it I'd like to let people know about it.

As I mentioned earlier I had a problem with the gel coat. I had scheduled two days(Sunday and Monday) to make the molds and on the first day something came up so I was forced to do it all in one day(got the grand daughter the rest of the week)

What happen was there was a small section of gel coat that wasn't completely cured and it wrinkled when I applied the glass over it.

Maybe during her nap time today I'll pull the molds off and see how bad it turned out.

Depending on the quality I was thinking of charging around $60 for the pair plus shipping(I know free sounds better*laugh*). I wasn't planning to gel coat them since they're going to get painted.

So with all of that said let me see how they turn out first and if there are any issues I will let you know.

Brett
 
Brett Proctor

Brett Proctor

Well-known member
Pulled the molds yesterday and the quality isn't the greatest so I'm going to make another set of molds before I offer them for sale

For those that are interested in them I'll try to get the new molds done as soon as possible. Maybe a week, maybe more.
I wont hurry this set.
I first need to make a new plug. The old one got ruined when I pulled the mold off. New one will be made out of fiberglass and the finish will be of better quality.

Wont sell crap

The interest in them was higher than I expected so I'll try to give you your moneys worth.

Thanks
Brett
 
V

vpogv

Active member
I am pretty sure I can speak for everybody that showed interest by saying - "take your time." You have done more work in a day that I have in a month on my car. *laugh*
 
Brett Proctor

Brett Proctor

Well-known member
Got the new plugs made. I just need to trim the excess glass off, get the finish right and get the flaws out of it(circled section)

I was planning to just sand these out of the scoop and use the scoop but because of the interest in the scoop I wasn't about to sell them like this. People pay their hard earned money for a product that doesn't have flaws in it.

Might have the new molds done within a week(depends on how many days I don't have the grand daughter)
 

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Brett Proctor

Brett Proctor

Well-known member
OK the molds for the scoops are about done.
I'm looking at about a week more before they're done.(got the grand daughter the rest of the week)

I'm planning to use white gel coat for the scoops final finish. I figure white is the best color to paint over.

Once I make the first set I'll post pictures and any flaws that they have.

The scoops will have to have the excess fiberglass trimmed off and sanded to fit flush to the body. Sorry but I don't have the time to trim the part to fit.

More info later
 
Brett Proctor

Brett Proctor

Well-known member
Molds are finished.
The finish is not flawless but its alot better than the previous set.

I'll try to make my set of scoops this weekend and post how they turn out.
 
Y

ydeardorff

New member
Im sure they will be fine brett.
Especially since most of us would have to be priming and painting them anyway.
That should take care of any "imperfections"
 
Brett Proctor

Brett Proctor

Well-known member
Finished
I have another idea for that opening so I may not use these.

Thinking of making it an extractor vent for the heat from the radiator to escape
 

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V

vpogv

Active member
Looks awesome. Could those be attached with double-sided tape or would they have to be glassed on? Not quite sure how you molded the bottom.
 
Brett Proctor

Brett Proctor

Well-known member
vpogv said:
Looks awesome. Could those be attached with double-sided tape or would they have to be glassed on? Not quite sure how you molded the bottom.
Click to expand...

Thickness is only about 1/8"

I was thinking of glassing in some mounting bolts but never got that far with it.

Also was thinking of using structural adhesive to bond it to the car. Same stuff I used for that rear lip that I destroyed while trying to remove it.

You want more pictures of it from the back side I can do that.
 
C

CyCo

New member
Tons of those air intakes here in Oz are bolted through the tub. Someone here in the club (though they recently sold their Eureka) redesign them a few years ago. His idea was to take a mold of the top of the body tub, then make a lower section for the upper part of the air intake to bolt to. Them you fit the whole assembly to the body, with the bottom of it fitting into the air intake molded into the actual body tub. Then you can either bolt it through the lower air intake in the body tub, or my idea was extend it below the air intake in the body tub, and then secure it from the underneath, maybe like suing something like a huge pvc nut like in plumbing used for toilets. Then the top air intake would be secured by being pulled together with the body tub in between.
 
Brett Proctor

Brett Proctor

Well-known member
vpogv said:
Looks awesome. Could those be attached with double-sided tape or would they have to be glassed on? Not quite sure how you molded the bottom.
Click to expand...

When they were made there was a flange on it as can be seen here (this is the mold) but I removed it.
I didn't care for the looks of it with the flange attached
PA030012.jpg
 
RangerBEH

RangerBEH

Member
I planed to clean my set of intakes up like that too. How were you planning on attaching it? Also when you cut the flange off did you cut it horizontally above the flange or vertically so the part touching the car doesn't change?
 
Brett Proctor

Brett Proctor

Well-known member
RangerBEH said:
I planed to clean my set of intakes up like that too. How were you planning on attaching it? Also when you cut the flange off did you cut it horizontally above the flange or vertically so the part touching the car doesn't change?
Click to expand...


I was going to use a structural adhesive. Tap Plastics has an epoxy that works real good but I looked for it and they are out of it. 3M has an adhesive also for bonding fiberglass. I'll look for it and post it when I get a chance.

right where the flange starts is the point that should match the body lines.
I cut the flange off leaving about an 1/8" of it from the edge of the scoop, then I sanded from the bottom till I reached that point and just barely removing the rest of the flange area.

If that doesn't make sense let me know and I'll post pictures.
 
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