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Brett Proctor

Well-known member
For those of you that got these from me I came up with an easy way to install them and they will be removable So you can paint the car and then install them.

Got the grand daughter for an over night thing tonight so when I get some time I'll post my idea of how to install them.

Thanks
Brett
 

Brett Proctor

Well-known member
Got pictures and instructions to post. Very simple install

Will post later tonight(I hope) Got the grand daughter all weekend and its hard to get a free minute with her around
 

Brett Proctor

Well-known member
Finally got some free time to post this

Sorry for the long wait

Here are the materials that I used

Aluminum tape
Nashua Tape 1.89 in. x 50 yd. 322 Multi-Purpose HVAC Foil Tape-1207792 - The Home Depot
PA250005.jpg

Kitty Hair
this is the long strand but for the front section of the scoop I chopped it up with a utility knife blade into smaller strands
PA250010.jpg

I was thinking of making my own of filler out of resin and fiberglass strands but thought I'd try this. Make sure you add enough hardener so it cures completely. I had to put one of the scoops in the sun because I didn't add enough hardener. It cured but didn't cure hard.

OK after the flange is removed sand the scoop to match the body lines. I placed sand paper between the scoop and body to get a close fit
PA250004.jpg

Place the scoop on the body in the location that you want it to go and outline it with a marker
PA250002.jpg PA250003.jpg

At this time wax(mold release)and apply PVA (or your own release agent) to the area that the scoop will be placed.
If your car is already painted, if you do this right the paint will not be ruined.The wax and PVA will protect the paint.

Use the aluminum tape to make borders to hold the kitty hair in place
PA250007.jpg PA250008.jpg
PA250015.jpg PA250017.jpg
Don't worry about placing release agent on the tape. the kitty hair wont stick to it.
One other thing to mention. If you have already painted your scoop take precautions to protect the finish from the kitty hair.

Place the scoops on the car at the location that you decided for them to go. Place alignment marks on the car and scoop at the edge of the aluminum tape. This will also give you a location for where to drill the attaching screws.
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In the photos you can see that I've drilled a hole just deep enough to get through the gelcoat on the car. This mark will be transferred to the kitty hair and will help you locate where to drill the mounting holes.


Now the fun starts

OOPS forgot to mention that you should sand the areas where the kitty hair will go before you place the aluminum tape on.

OK now the fun part

I chopped the kitty hair into shorter strands for the front areas of the scoop. I did the front section first and then once that was cured I did the back.
Mix the kitty hair with hardener and pack it into the areas that you taped off. Once you have done this place it on the car and using the alignment marks that you made place it in position and tape the scoop down.
PA250023.jpg

Don't worry about excess kitty hair at the edges, once it starts to cure you can take a utility knife and trim off the excess.

Once the front is cured and done pull the scoop off and the same procedures go for the back section of the scoop.
Here's how it looks when done. Noticed that I circled where the holes to be drilled have been transferred into the kittyhair
PA250025.jpg

Next depending on the screws you use drill the appropriate size holes into the scoops. I'm going to assume your smart enough not to drill the holes through the scoops.
I used a 1/8" drill bit for the scoop section and a 1/4" for the body section
PA250036.jpg

Thats it your done.
For the time it took me to write this up I had the scoops installed.

PA250032.jpg PA250033.jpg

Haven't tested this yet but I think the kitty hair should work, I know if you made your own solution with resin and glass it would be strong enough for sure.
 

vpogv

Active member
I will state the obvious to make sure the part where the kitty hair is going is scuffed up nicely. Short of that I really don't see this being a bad solution at all.
 

CyCo

New member
If you don't want to drill through your body tub, you could go one step further. Make a mold of the duct that is molded into the shoulder of the tub;

6790d1445951739t-new-look-pa250032.jpg


but extend it say an inch or so longer than the duct.

Then on the extra inch of the moulded duct, you add in an extra strip of fiberglass (or stick on a strip of plastic, etc), to form a keyway. Grab an appropriate sized piece of pvc pipe (or make a fiberglass ring), that fits snugly over the end of the duct. Remove some of the inner side of the PVC pipe (file most likely) so that it accommodates the keyway.

Then you can either simply glue the two pieces together, or run a couple screws or bolts through the moulded bottom of the scoop. :)
 

Brett Proctor

Well-known member
I will state the obvious to make sure the part where the kitty hair is going is scuffed up nicely. Short of that I really don't see this being a bad solution at all.


I tried to make it as simple as possible.

My original plans were to epoxy thread inserts in.

Still not 100% sure the threads will be strong enough. Just make sure that a coarse pitch screw is used.

Also I would suggest using a clear silicone sealant all along the edges of the scoop to help seal and bond it to the body.

If the threads do get striped out it would be easy to fix by drilling a bigger hole and just fill it with JB Weld and then cut new threads into it or epoxy a thread insert into the hole.
 

RangerBEH

Member
Thanks Brett that looks great will deffently do that this winter. I like that it can be removed for painting*thumbs up*
 

islandman

Member
I had a similar dilemma with fitting my wing Mirrors as I had made custom mounts. I ended up embedding something similar to the T-nuts above into the kitty hair so that I could bolt up into a metal thread and have it pulled tight. That approach would work in this scenario too.

I do like the lateral thinking of making a small indentation into the gel coat and then having this transfer onto the kitty hair to ensure a precise line up of the holes, that's a good idea to store away for future use *thumbs up*
 

vpogv

Active member
I had a similar dilemma with fitting my wing Mirrors as I had made custom mounts. I ended up embedding something similar to the T-nuts above into the kitty hair so that I could bolt up into a metal thread and have it pulled tight. That approach would work in this scenario too.

Oh don't get me started with mounting mirrors. *freaking out mad*
 

CyCo

New member
If you don't want to drill through your body tub, you could go one step further. Make a mold of the duct that is molded into the shoulder of the tub;

6790d1445951739t-new-look-pa250032.jpg


but extend it say an inch or so longer than the duct.

Then on the extra inch of the moulded duct, you add in an extra strip of fiberglass (or stick on a strip of plastic, etc), to form a keyway. Grab an appropriate sized piece of pvc pipe (or make a fiberglass ring), that fits snugly over the end of the duct. Remove some of the inner side of the PVC pipe (file most likely) so that it accommodates the keyway.

Then you can either simply glue the two pieces together, or run a couple screws or bolts through the moulded bottom of the scoop. :)

Excuse me while I quote myself. lol

One of the club members a few years ago did exactly this, made the mold to make the air intake a 2 piece affair. Not many have been done, but the idea is sound. He used them on his own car. He also remade the top piece of the air intakes, as like most of the car, one side is a different size to the other. lol
 

CyCo

New member
Another possibility instead of the t-nut would be to use rivnuts. The main issue would be how much will the nuts 'bite' into the fiberglass and give resistance when screwing in a bolt, without tearing said fiberglass.
 

Peter

Active member
AHH Ha, language is a wonderful thing, but confusing at times, so T-nuts it is.*thumbs up*
 
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