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Pog's Sterling (CCC293)

V

vpogv

Active member
Peter said:
Had the same problem, I use a phylum box for 2 1/2" 63mm ducting (and two 1 1/4" demist) but after making a pair of flaps and all the levers, cables knobs etc I binned it all and went for bulls eye vents I could open and close individually and also redirect to the screen. Lucky I don't need to worry about heating.

Eyeball Dash Vent Chrome - Car Builder Solutions - Kit Car Parts and Accessories
Click to expand...

I was looking at those actually due to the size and the shape seem so very close to what I have. I will wait and see how these flappers work and revisit down the road if necessary. Really shoudl have planned ahead a bit more.

On a related note I over paid for some fiberglass mat to make the air passages under the dash permanent. I will work on that tonight.
 
Peter

Peter

Active member
I just found out yesterday I could use a pair of 45 degree elbows to attach the ducts to the vents.
 
V

vpogv

Active member
That's the route I'm taking to hook up the small manifold to the blower hose but getting premade 45 or 90 degree ABS angles to fit for the rest is a challenge. Doing one last look at the hardware store for something that will work before I grab a can of foam and start glassing.
 
Peter

Peter

Active member
Great thing about 63mm (2 1/2") is it's off the shelf in the plumbers shop. But "dust extraction" parts are a lot lighter.
 
V

vpogv

Active member
Nic said:
Pog, you have a 3D printer. Why not print the parts you need?
Click to expand...

I might end up having to print the manifold due to the turn and angles it needs. The rest is just long, thin runs and just easier to do it with glass.
 
V

vpogv

Active member
I spent a while modeling the manifold up to print and in the end It was just easier to hack a few fittings which will then be simply glassed into the 90 bend and feed both dash vents. Figured out the mounting for the whole thing and will be laying just a little glass tomorrow to make it all work. Not much to show but a picture none-the-less.

20160320_212910.jpg
 
V

vpogv

Active member
Well *very frustrated* Finished up the tubing for the vents on the dash. Hooked the blower up and everything works as I hoped except absolutely no airflow to the defrost vent. In the image above you can make out where I put the connection for that vent (bottom middle of the image) and it blows out right into a flat area. The air doesn't flow around it and out.

I am thinking I need to redo that entire defrost manifold to flow the air better. I need to taper it down from the middle to the far left and right edges to get the air to flow better as well as make a V to split the air flow around the flat area it is currently blowing at.

Probably makes no sense but hey, I got to vent about it.
 
V

vpogv

Active member
Yup, done and done. Just didn't plan ahead for the air flow when glassing in the duct behind it.

20121128_201152_595.jpg
 
islandman

islandman

Member
vpogv said:
Yup, done and done. Just didn't plan ahead for the air flow when glassing in the duct behind it.

20121128_201152_595.jpg
Click to expand...

I think we have all been there, I'm on my 3 dash and at least 4th method of ducting trying to improve the airflow and cooling / heating.

My current efforts have stopped whilst I explore repositioning my aircon / heater box and also seeing if I can get the subaru dash and ducting to fit
 
V

vpogv

Active member
One of my larger issues is simply the tubing I'm using is from a shop-vac which isn't doing the airflow any favors. The plan is to redo the manifold for the defrost vent and if that doesn't improve the flow then I will glass up all of the ducting to help smooth out the airflow. Now I just need the weather and this darn cold to cooperate.
 
V

vpogv

Active member
I almost went with your approach Brett. I ran out of mat, drops of resin left, the metal I attempted to bend up just didn't work... I sucked it up and grabbed some a small quart of resin and mat locally and went to work this weekend.

It was pretty apparent why the air flow wasn't really there for the defrost vents. Just was a space rather than a way for the air to flow.

20160410_203918.jpg

After a few smaller glassing sessions I came up with a much better design and I actually tested it prior to permanently glassing it in place. Additionally I increased the supply line from a 1" to a 2.5" which does anything but hurt. Yes it's ugly but it will hold and nobody will ever see it. *proud*

20160410_203907.jpg

20160411_232717.jpg

The dash gauges have been laid out and cut which gave me a chance to figure out how I wanted the indicators and few warning lights set up. After some thought I came up with this:

20160411_232730.jpg

Which after a call to a friend I had my design in vinyl ready to be set on a small section of lexan. If you need any little vinyl job let me know. Price is cheap and they just enjoy doing the work. *thumbs up*

20160411_232737.jpg
 
V

vpogv

Active member
So glad I took a little time to test the air flow before just putting the dash back in and hooking it all up. While the problem with the defrost vents was a poorly designed manifold/ ducting the bigger issue was the blower just blows air and needs adequate tubing to do that. Smaller tubing does not equate to a higher PSI/ strong air flow - instead it equates to simply less air flow.

This past weekend I made the decision to increase the size of the whole system which meant start over. One simple 2" PVC will flow the air to all vents. I will add a simple flapper to open and close the defrost which will allow for the air to flow where I need/ want it.

20160417_202051.jpg

20160417_202058.jpg

Due to material available and the location I am going to use 2" tubing to each vent but the drivers side which will remain 1.5" for now which is why there's the modified outlet in the pictures.

A bit of advice I can give anybody when building: Keep everything out of the driver's side footwell. Everything gets in the way of the pedals. *humpf*
 
V

vpogv

Active member
Perhaps but I think I'd still run into the issue of trying to get it to force the air vs. flow it. The only time the smaller size would work is at the end of a run when the amount of air flow decreases. Redoing it is honestly the quickest and simplest way.
 
Peter

Peter

Active member
I used standard 2 1/2" units but I have two 1 1/2" outlets I can use for demist or side window ducts, yet to be decided. Cold is not on issue but heat is.
dash marked out.jpg
The bullseye vents can swivel closed or to the screen or face but I may need one either side or in the centre under the bottom of the screen, time and testing will tell.
ducting 63mm.jpg
I think you made a pretty good job of that vent too.
 
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