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Power draw and always-hot fuses

chromecarz00

New member
I have a nasty power draw that developed sometime in the recent months. It's killed a few batteries so far by taking it to 0 while the cars been sitting. I've found that my fusebox has mostly always-hot switches - is this normal? Any advice on how to diagnose specifically what would be drawing power?

Also, my oil PSI goes to max when the electrics turn on. Any ideas as to why?
 

nbb350

Active member
Also, my oil PSI goes to max when the electrics turn on. Any ideas as to why?

If it returns to Zero PSI after turning on the electronics (and without starting the engine), it's most likely just a normal "gauge test" to show you that the needle works across the entire range. But if it stays at MAX...your gauge is probably bad.
 

letterman7

Honorary Admin
Or grounded wrong (for the gauge). Always hot fuses are normal for the most part. It's the ground on the other end that will kill the battery. Kits in general are not wired well, and the smallest current will kill a battery in short time. I always installed a battery disconnect in my cars for when it was going to sit a while.
 

Peter

Active member
Fuses should never get hot, warm, sometimes. heavy loads require heavier fuses size wise, (blades come in mini, std and jumbo for a reason) such as audio amps but the battery should be good for at least a month idle, do a current test, connect an ammeter between battery and lead to see what is drawing the power. pull any warm fuse and see if it drops. Shouldn't be more than a few mill-amps for radio, alarm, memory and standby nothing else other than direct switched units such as solenoid for trunk opening, etc should be 'on'.
 

Peter

Active member
Just do a 'parasitic current drain test' and see what the drain is, Ammeter between battery and lead.

The only 'hot' or 'live' fuses should be those for radio memory, alarm standby, central locking remote and any other memory related equipment, audio equipment such as amps should only be on when radio is on. etc.

Trunk and hood lights are a favorite culprit as are sticking window and central locking motors.
 
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