rickjames8
Member
My side windows are fixed in place, but the sunroof comes out, so likely something I can do there.
Project Defi
- Thread starter rickjames8
- Start date
letterman7
Honorary Admin
Cargo straps with hooks. Hook at the front corners of the canopy near the windshield curve, and the other two wherever you can get them to grab at the back low corners (C-clamps will help here). Criss-cross the straps over the top of the canopy and lift from the center. That way, all the stress is distributed across the structure. Or... a 2x4 stuck inside and wedged against the firewall and the canopy top edge 
Just don't bump it.
Just don't bump it.rickjames8
Member
So I yanked the windows today. I wasn't going to get that much in to this project right now, but I couldn't see a really good way to hold the roof up without taking out the windows. And it was on the someday list anyway. So that's done.
The new starter (T3 - Auto) arrived the other day, but a friend was visiting, so I haven't had a chance to try it. I'd put the rear tire back on so I could roll the car and put the straps up. I'm kinda focused on getting the canopy working first, as I don't like not being able to get in the car without a second person around.
The new starter (T3 - Auto) arrived the other day, but a friend was visiting, so I haven't had a chance to try it. I'd put the rear tire back on so I could roll the car and put the straps up. I'm kinda focused on getting the canopy working first, as I don't like not being able to get in the car without a second person around.
rickjames8
Member
I got the T3 starter installed, and it turns over!! This means I must have a 12v flywheel and my 6v starter wasn't starting it. However, it seems to be stuck in gear. The clutch pedal is disconnected, so I've got to remove the other wheel and get to the clutch and engage it manually. Plus, my shifter was broken, so I've got to install the new one so that I can shift it once I get the clutch engaged.
I also removed the hinge on one side. I think I'll do the one side at a time so that the roof isn't just floating in mid-air. Seems it would be easier to manage that way.
By the way, the bolts holding the arms on were fully threaded, meaning the arms were pivoting over threads. The bolts looked surprisingly ok (no noticable wear). I'd planned on using partially threaded bolts so that the arm pivoted on a smooth surface (with a lot of grease). Is that was folks normally do? Later I wondered if the threads decreased the contact area and made it move easier?? I really like Bretts bearing idea, but I don't have the time/tools to make that modification.
I also removed the hinge on one side. I think I'll do the one side at a time so that the roof isn't just floating in mid-air. Seems it would be easier to manage that way.
By the way, the bolts holding the arms on were fully threaded, meaning the arms were pivoting over threads. The bolts looked surprisingly ok (no noticable wear). I'd planned on using partially threaded bolts so that the arm pivoted on a smooth surface (with a lot of grease). Is that was folks normally do? Later I wondered if the threads decreased the contact area and made it move easier?? I really like Bretts bearing idea, but I don't have the time/tools to make that modification.
The issue of needle bearings comes up from time to time. My thoughts are that it’s important to have some sort of well-fitting bushing so there isn’t a lot of play in the system. Most Sterlings had/have nylon bushings. Some builders might have upgraded to brass. It would certainly be cool to have a way to add grease to them but I don’t think I’ve ever seen a Sterling with such fittings.
As for needle bearings, they would certainly work and would give some cool bragging rights but I can’t convince myself they would add anything meaningful. Needle bearings are meant for systems that are going to spin fast or spin several hundreds of thousands if not millions of times. I don’t know about you but if I cycle my canopy ten times in a year it’s been a good year.
I’ve never heard a canopy squeak. I’ve never heard of one binding or getting stuck at the hinge pivots. I know of a lot of Sterlings for which the canopy looks “ricketty” opening and closing due to sloppy or missing bushings.
From an engineering perspective the best modification to do would be to make the tubes of the pivots wider (ie, to accept longer bolts) in order to absorb side-to-side forces better. But I’ve never seen that done. Which brings us back around to the original thought of “just make sure the pivots have bushings that don’t have lots of play” and you should be good.
If I were re-engineering the canopy hinges from scratch I’d make them wider at the lower pivots and beef up the lower plate a bit. Arguably, it’d be overkill doing so.
I really love seeing you making progress.
As for needle bearings, they would certainly work and would give some cool bragging rights but I can’t convince myself they would add anything meaningful. Needle bearings are meant for systems that are going to spin fast or spin several hundreds of thousands if not millions of times. I don’t know about you but if I cycle my canopy ten times in a year it’s been a good year.
I’ve never heard a canopy squeak. I’ve never heard of one binding or getting stuck at the hinge pivots. I know of a lot of Sterlings for which the canopy looks “ricketty” opening and closing due to sloppy or missing bushings.
From an engineering perspective the best modification to do would be to make the tubes of the pivots wider (ie, to accept longer bolts) in order to absorb side-to-side forces better. But I’ve never seen that done. Which brings us back around to the original thought of “just make sure the pivots have bushings that don’t have lots of play” and you should be good.
If I were re-engineering the canopy hinges from scratch I’d make them wider at the lower pivots and beef up the lower plate a bit. Arguably, it’d be overkill doing so.
I really love seeing you making progress.
letterman7
Honorary Admin
Hi Rick! Cool - progress is progress, no matter what. You can check the transmission coupling under the access plate behind the seats and see if you can get a grip on the shift rod / cage connection to the nosecone and manually pull/push it in and out of gear. You can put a big C clamp over the clutch lever arm to pull it back (it doesn't need to go far) or have your boy push it back with a broomstick until you get the shift rod into neutral. As for the hinges.. I'm in the camp that simple is better. My cars all had nylon bushings - and some had all-thread bolts through those bushings. If you can find nylon or bronze bushings to fit into the arms, you can drop the diameter of the bolt and move to a graded bolt for the strength. There's no shear force involved since all the weight and force is being directed to the steel support framing.
rickjames8
Member
Sorry for the delays in the replies. I was on vacation, and being the old fart that I am, I refuse to type anything longer than 'ok' on a phone keyboard.
Not much progress due to the aforementioned vacay, but I did get my saw table set up before going. Will need that to cut out my new pieces. It's just a cheap jig saw flipped upside down and mounted on wood. I'm going to try to find a drill press too. Been wanting one for ages anyway.
Yep, I've got nylon bushings - and it seems Rick is in this camp too. Thanks for the thoughts on needle bearings. I was just wondering if it would give a smoother movement. But it sounds like not, and if so, a minimal improvement (if any) for a lot of work.
Good to know. The only issue I had in my former car was stopping at full open. The hydraulics might have been from a forklift or something, as it opened it 2-3 seconds, violently thrusting the canopy forward. When it abruptly met the end of the travel, the whole car shook forward a bit.
Cool. Beefing up the lower ones is what I'm doing. Not because I want beefier, but because the old ones are all bent up (somehow) so if I've got to rebuild them, it doesn't really ass much effort to use thicket metal.
Will do that.
Not much progress due to the aforementioned vacay, but I did get my saw table set up before going. Will need that to cut out my new pieces. It's just a cheap jig saw flipped upside down and mounted on wood. I'm going to try to find a drill press too. Been wanting one for ages anyway.
Brett Proctor
Well-known member
Sounds like you've made your mind up on using bushings so if your going that route I would suggest using Oilite Bronze Bushings.
Oilite is a porous bronze or iron alloy commonly impregnated with an oil lubricant and used in bearings.
Oilite is a porous bronze or iron alloy commonly impregnated with an oil lubricant and used in bearings.
nbb350
Active member
It's been so long since I rebuilt my hinges, but I did like Brett suggested and used oiled bronze bushings. bushing has a shoulder on one side to keep it from slipping thru the bracket. Bushing length is slightly longer than the bracket out-to-out, so it just needs a washer on the other side; I think i drilled out the washer ID to exactly match the bushing OD. I think I used nylocs on the hinge arms to keep them "tight enough", but not "too tight" to prevent movement. But that was YEARS ago...