Rear Coilover Conversion

[RangerBEH]

I'm about to dismantle my rear suspension and came across a write up on the nova site about the red9 easy rider coil over conversion. There is another company making this kit in the US.

Eagle Performance Coilover Conversion

Have any of you used a mod like this? Can it be used with Empi coil over shocks? Any reason to not use a kit like this?

I have the chassis completely stripped and I figured now the time to rebuild the rear suspension. If a kit like this isn't the way to go do any company's make a good rebuild kit?

Thanks in advance guys

 

[RangerBEH]

I will add I've read some mixed reviews on these mods. I do plan to use the reinforcement kit on the shock towers. If keeping it stock makes more sense that's fine I'm just worried about getting the rearend to sit right again during reassembly.

 

[GS Guy]

This is the only coil-over conversion I'd consider doing on a VW chassis:
TheSamba.com :: VW Classifieds - MENDEOLA's True Track Rear Suspension kit

Yes, it's a lot of $$ up front, but it is designed to improve the handling of the car - as opposed to just adding sprung shocks in the back. It also includes the sway bar and upper shock reinforcement parts.
I'd suggest first adding up all the parts to build your own based around the stock trailing arms. Just a pair of coil-over shocks are going to run some pretty good money, plus you'll need to reinforce the lower shock mount since it wasn't designed to support the weight of the car. I don't think the Eagle torsion bar replacements provide for any camber adjustment? With the stock trailing arms you still have the camber problems if you lower it much.
IMHO,
Jeff

 

[letterman7]

It's gonna come down to what you want to do with the car ultimately. Is this for the Sebring or the Sterling? Really, unless you're building the car for autocross or fast road racing, the Red9 and Mendola kits are somewhat overkill. While the Mendy looks great, it would be best purposed with it's front beam counterpart, else it's only along for the ride. No sense in upgrading one end and not the other.

I've had aftermarket coil-overs on both my cars. The red car almost required them to set the ride height with the extra engine weight (and I can't get to the torsion bars).

 

[RangerBEH]

Jeff a kit like that would be awesome but that would set back my project some time. I have some more homework to do I'm just trying to build a good reliable driver with a 1600 dual port. The time to at least rebuild the rear suspension is now while the cars in pieces.

 

[letterman7]

Reliable and pocket friendly? Go stock. Even a set of KYB oil shocks will steady up the rear.

 

[GS Guy]

Rick has the right idea. Punt the coil-over thoughts and concentrate on a good solid stock re-build. New OEM hard rubber torsion bar bushings, maybe urethane for the trailing arm inner (but only in that location). Keep the torsion bar springs and adjust for the ride height you want, but not too low because that gives too much negative camber. Spend the money on some good shocks. There's a thread on Shop Talk about someone getting GAZ single adjustables here in the states. For the money, they're probably the best bet. Next up, Airkewled has some adjustable shocks that bear looking into, but I haven't heard or read any reviews about them. They appear to be Ridetech shocks, probably tailored for VW specific use through Airkewled. I'm running Varishocks on my Deserter (Chassisworks), and there is bound to be something in their lineup in a single adjustable that could be retro-fitted. Also the old red Koni's if you can find them, but not easily adjusted. Match that with a similar front end set-up and some sway bars and optimize the OEM hardware.
Jeff

 

[RangerBEH]

Ok that route sounds cheaper as well. Does anyone make a good irs rebuild kit that has the rubber bushings and bearings? I need to go over the manual and see what else should be replaced. The ride hight is also perfect where it is so hopefully I can rebuild it without changing anything.

I was planning on getting a stage 3 SoCal balljoint front and adding empi coil over shocks. So if I rebuild the back and do the same should be a reliable decent ride for years.

 

[letterman7]

No bearings, just bushings. Inner and outer on the torsion bars, but truthfully, if the outer isn't worn and torn, the inner probably isn't either. If you want to replace them, you'll need to mark the torsion bar in relation to the trailing arm and pull it out exactly straight, and put it back exactly as it was. One spline off on either end will change how the car sits. I've only ever changed the outer bushing because it was torn.. and really didn't notice a change in ride characteristics. The only other bushing in the back is the trailing arm bushing (that big disc under the big bolt holding the arm to the tunnel). I've never changed that - ever. My basic lazy rule is if the arm isn't moving oddly in the socket, leave it alone *laugh*