Sterling #130 (aka American V8 ~ Chapter 2)
- Thread starter nbb350
- Start date
Brett Proctor
Well-known member
Well the lesser of the evils from looking at the pictures to me would be to move the battery forward out of that pocket and make a battery tray like what I did so it mounts lower and clears the fan.
That would lower your battery enough so it would clear the hood.
That would also eliminate any cutting and modifying what you have now. It would require drilling some holes to mount the tray
OK thats it for me, I'm out of ideas. Your on your own.
That would lower your battery enough so it would clear the hood.
That would also eliminate any cutting and modifying what you have now. It would require drilling some holes to mount the tray
OK thats it for me, I'm out of ideas. Your on your own.
nbb350
Active member
not-so-virgin "firewall"
chop-chop!
L x W of an Ulta box is the same as an Interstate 78S battery! And the box is 1/4" TALLER, so if IT will fit, the Battery will fit!
4 tagboard iterations...changing the drop and the angle a little bit each time...
final tray made out of aluminum
Why Interstate? Because it's GREEN! lol
Turnbuckle rods transfer weight to the sturdy firewall (and I had to wait 2.5 weeks for those damn rods to be delivered!)
There is about 1/4" clear from the aluminum tray to the fan cage.
hard to see, but there is 1/2" (middle) to 3/4" (sides) clear between the bottom of the hood and top of the battery
(I also like how you can see how the hood hinges look when they lay flat)
Next step is to rewire the battery cables. The Interstate battery has opposite poles than the Braille battery it replaces, so of course the Negative battery cable doesn't reach far enough...
chop-chop!
L x W of an Ulta box is the same as an Interstate 78S battery! And the box is 1/4" TALLER, so if IT will fit, the Battery will fit!
4 tagboard iterations...changing the drop and the angle a little bit each time...
final tray made out of aluminum
Why Interstate? Because it's GREEN! lol
Turnbuckle rods transfer weight to the sturdy firewall (and I had to wait 2.5 weeks for those damn rods to be delivered!)
There is about 1/4" clear from the aluminum tray to the fan cage.
hard to see, but there is 1/2" (middle) to 3/4" (sides) clear between the bottom of the hood and top of the battery
(I also like how you can see how the hood hinges look when they lay flat)
Next step is to rewire the battery cables. The Interstate battery has opposite poles than the Braille battery it replaces, so of course the Negative battery cable doesn't reach far enough...
Brett Proctor
Well-known member
That should solve your battery issues.
Huge difference in CCA and Reserve Capacity compared to what you had.
Once installed and wired in, I would do a voltage check to make sure the alternator is charging it at the required voltage.
Huge difference in CCA and Reserve Capacity compared to what you had.
Once installed and wired in, I would do a voltage check to make sure the alternator is charging it at the required voltage.
I like your metal work. How were those panels cut?
nbb350
Active member
Thanks.
For the already-installed-and-painted aluminum panels in the car, I drilled starting holes with a stepped drill bit (so I didn't go thru too far and hit something critical on the other side that I couldn't see). Then I used a small air-powered reciprocating saw to make the straight cuts. ( like this: https://www.harborfreight.com/air-reciprocating-saw-58910.html )
For the new aluminum plate tray, it was a combination of using a metal bandsaw for big straight cuts and then a handheld jigsaw for the tight final cuts. Then files on the edges to remove saw blade marks and ease the edges. Then sanding with 320 grit to give it a uniform sheen.
nbb350
Active member
I ended up having to rotate the battery so the cables would reach - I didn't have any more 4 ga Black wire, so had to use what was already there. I like it better this way though - the cables are out of sight, away from the fan, and that pocket behind the battery wasn't being used for anything anyways.
Brett Proctor
Well-known member
Looks Good but 4ga wire seems small
Brett Proctor
Well-known member
Disregard previous comment on 4 gauge wire.
After some research one site says a starter pulls a minimum of 100 amps, so I did a search for how many amps 4 gauge wire is good for and that site says 30 amps. Then another site says 4 gauge wire will work for a starter.
I give up, to much conflicting information
After some research one site says a starter pulls a minimum of 100 amps, so I did a search for how many amps 4 gauge wire is good for and that site says 30 amps. Then another site says 4 gauge wire will work for a starter.
I give up, to much conflicting information
nbb350
Active member
Next project is done! Disc brake upgrade on the front wheels!
Before/After:
I bought the kit from Cip1 - it was a mix of EMPI-branded and un-branded parts. New rotors, calipers, bearings, nuts, plus hoses. Everything bolted right up - I didn't even need the shim washers to align the calipers to the rotors.
The only problem (*) I encountered was that the center dust caps wouldn't stay on. I'd pound them on, then as soon as I turned the rotor, they would POP off! Turned out the new spindle nuts were too big, so I had to re-use the old (smaller) nuts with the new caps.
Also, Yes, I kept the VW-4 > Chevy-5 adapters since they work nicely with my wheel offset and since the kit doesn't change the "standard offset", I needed to keep that extra 1" to keep the tires from rubbing.
* = Well, not the ONLY problem... This project would have easily been completed in an afternoon if I hadn't tweaked my back halfway thru it. THAT caused a 2 week pause while I recovered. I hate getting old...
One other slight delay I had was due to the fact that the bearing races weren't already pressed into the new rotors, so I had to "borrow" a bearing press tool from my local Auto-Zone store. Then I had to "modify" my Harbor Freight bench press to accept my slightly-too-big rotors. Since I haven't used the press in years (can't remember what project I even bought it for...), I had no qualms taking a sawzall to it! lol
Before/After:
I bought the kit from Cip1 - it was a mix of EMPI-branded and un-branded parts. New rotors, calipers, bearings, nuts, plus hoses. Everything bolted right up - I didn't even need the shim washers to align the calipers to the rotors.
The only problem (*) I encountered was that the center dust caps wouldn't stay on. I'd pound them on, then as soon as I turned the rotor, they would POP off! Turned out the new spindle nuts were too big, so I had to re-use the old (smaller) nuts with the new caps.
Also, Yes, I kept the VW-4 > Chevy-5 adapters since they work nicely with my wheel offset and since the kit doesn't change the "standard offset", I needed to keep that extra 1" to keep the tires from rubbing.
* = Well, not the ONLY problem... This project would have easily been completed in an afternoon if I hadn't tweaked my back halfway thru it. THAT caused a 2 week pause while I recovered. I hate getting old...
One other slight delay I had was due to the fact that the bearing races weren't already pressed into the new rotors, so I had to "borrow" a bearing press tool from my local Auto-Zone store. Then I had to "modify" my Harbor Freight bench press to accept my slightly-too-big rotors. Since I haven't used the press in years (can't remember what project I even bought it for...), I had no qualms taking a sawzall to it! lol
nbb350
Active member
While I had the front tires off, I also took the time to diagnose my "crazy bouncing speedometer" issue.
My system is Spindle/dust cap > Speedo cable > electronic pulse sender > electric speedometer.
I hooked a drill up to the speedo cable (pulled from the left front spindle) and had my wife watch the speedo. It bounced like usual.
Next step was to disconnect the speedo and connect a DMM to the sender to measure the AC voltage output. Low speed on the drill (still attached to speedo cable) was 0.8 VAC. High speed was 2.4 VAC. Maybe +/- 0.02 VAC total. Rock steady output.
OK, so the problem isn't with the cable binding or the electronic sender - either of those would have caused varying AC voltage readings. That means the problem is internal to the Auto Meter electronic Speedometer gauge. That compliments the problems with the fuel gauge - it "forgot" it's settings over the first winter when the battery was disconnected. Design flaw! Any aftermarket product intended/designed/marketed for occasional-use vehicles should be able to retain it's settings either Permanently or at least for 6 months!! Maybe there's a reason Auto Meter stopped making the MCX line of gauges after a few years....
Well, at least I didn't already spend hundreds of dollars on a GPS sender just to hook it up to a faulty speedometer! I'll just keep using the GPS speedo app on my phone...
My system is Spindle/dust cap > Speedo cable > electronic pulse sender > electric speedometer.
I hooked a drill up to the speedo cable (pulled from the left front spindle) and had my wife watch the speedo. It bounced like usual.
Next step was to disconnect the speedo and connect a DMM to the sender to measure the AC voltage output. Low speed on the drill (still attached to speedo cable) was 0.8 VAC. High speed was 2.4 VAC. Maybe +/- 0.02 VAC total. Rock steady output.
OK, so the problem isn't with the cable binding or the electronic sender - either of those would have caused varying AC voltage readings. That means the problem is internal to the Auto Meter electronic Speedometer gauge. That compliments the problems with the fuel gauge - it "forgot" it's settings over the first winter when the battery was disconnected. Design flaw! Any aftermarket product intended/designed/marketed for occasional-use vehicles should be able to retain it's settings either Permanently or at least for 6 months!! Maybe there's a reason Auto Meter stopped making the MCX line of gauges after a few years....
Well, at least I didn't already spend hundreds of dollars on a GPS sender just to hook it up to a faulty speedometer! I'll just keep using the GPS speedo app on my phone...
nbb350
Active member
Update....
This spring has been a b!tch with "back issues", so driving the Sterling has been low on the Possible Activities list.
I finally took it for a 2.5 mile spin around the neighborhood a few weeks ago to test the brakes and battery. No problems! Yay! Then I took my wife and dog out for a little 3 mile spin on 7/17. The seating position still causes neck and back aches though, so I found some old office-chair lumbar supports that I modified to fit the Sterling - they helped quite a bit.
Last night I drove to the local Saturday night car show 10 miles away. Got there fine (wife and dog drove her Jeep as a Spotter Vehicle - mainly to block traffic from behind whenever I needed to change lanes - those blind spots are Massive! lol), had a ton of lookers and questions, and when I went to leave she fired up in 0.5 seconds! Nice!
BUT, I was halfway home when the "new" (less than 50 miles on it) alternator belt decided to jump ship. Wifey behind me saw it bounce out from under the car, but couldn't tell if it was still in one piece or if it was broken. Sigh...another project for another day...
This spring has been a b!tch with "back issues", so driving the Sterling has been low on the Possible Activities list.
I finally took it for a 2.5 mile spin around the neighborhood a few weeks ago to test the brakes and battery. No problems! Yay! Then I took my wife and dog out for a little 3 mile spin on 7/17. The seating position still causes neck and back aches though, so I found some old office-chair lumbar supports that I modified to fit the Sterling - they helped quite a bit.
Last night I drove to the local Saturday night car show 10 miles away. Got there fine (wife and dog drove her Jeep as a Spotter Vehicle - mainly to block traffic from behind whenever I needed to change lanes - those blind spots are Massive! lol), had a ton of lookers and questions, and when I went to leave she fired up in 0.5 seconds! Nice!
BUT, I was halfway home when the "new" (less than 50 miles on it) alternator belt decided to jump ship. Wifey behind me saw it bounce out from under the car, but couldn't tell if it was still in one piece or if it was broken. Sigh...another project for another day...
Brett Proctor
Well-known member
I had a Jeep that would throw just the alternator belt. Never could find out why. Fixed it by trading the vehicle in on a new truck.
Maybe being a new belt it stretched enough to come off or I think "V" belts come with different tapers and the one you had didn't fit the taper on the pully right.
Just throwing out possibilities.
Maybe being a new belt it stretched enough to come off or I think "V" belts come with different tapers and the one you had didn't fit the taper on the pully right.
Just throwing out possibilities.
nbb350
Active member
Been awhile since I updated...
I looked at the alternator pulley again and noticed that the pulley was "shallow" - not much of the V-belt was sitting down in the pulley valley, so I swapped out the shiny new pulley for the old alternator pulley which seemed "deeper". The belt now sits about 1/8" farther down in the pulley...and has stayed ON so far! yay!
I also learned that I can only use about 5 gallons out of my 10 gallon tank. ??? My wife and I were heading to a car show this past Saturday and she asked me "do you need gas?", to which I replied "nah, I've only used like half the tank." Well, we jinxed ourselves! As I was about a three miles away from home (and another 9 from the show), I heard this CLICK-CLICK-CLICK sound start. Hmmm...not speed related, not motion related...what the heck? Then after about 30 seconds the engine died. "oh, it was the electronic fuel pump starving out!" So I pushed in the clutch and coasted along until I got to a sidestreet I recognized - because a friend lives on it! I didn't make it all the way to his house, but close enough to park on his quiet sidestreet and go get a 2 gallon gas can from his garage to fill up the Sterling enough to get to the gas station. Total gas added? 5.1 gallons. I believe I have the stock 10 gallon tank...maybe not? I dunno...
On the way home I also found out that the front disc brakes work great! Too bad they don't have enough weight on them to keep the tires spinning when I stomp on the pedal though... No accident; I just decided to NOT try to make a yellow turn arrow...and heard the brakes locking up a bit as I stopped. (Good thing I learned to drive before ABS, so my reflexes knew to let off the pedal and let the wheels start rolling a bit.)
I looked at the alternator pulley again and noticed that the pulley was "shallow" - not much of the V-belt was sitting down in the pulley valley, so I swapped out the shiny new pulley for the old alternator pulley which seemed "deeper". The belt now sits about 1/8" farther down in the pulley...and has stayed ON so far! yay!
I also learned that I can only use about 5 gallons out of my 10 gallon tank. ??? My wife and I were heading to a car show this past Saturday and she asked me "do you need gas?", to which I replied "nah, I've only used like half the tank." Well, we jinxed ourselves! As I was about a three miles away from home (and another 9 from the show), I heard this CLICK-CLICK-CLICK sound start. Hmmm...not speed related, not motion related...what the heck? Then after about 30 seconds the engine died. "oh, it was the electronic fuel pump starving out!" So I pushed in the clutch and coasted along until I got to a sidestreet I recognized - because a friend lives on it! I didn't make it all the way to his house, but close enough to park on his quiet sidestreet and go get a 2 gallon gas can from his garage to fill up the Sterling enough to get to the gas station. Total gas added? 5.1 gallons. I believe I have the stock 10 gallon tank...maybe not? I dunno...
On the way home I also found out that the front disc brakes work great! Too bad they don't have enough weight on them to keep the tires spinning when I stomp on the pedal though... No accident; I just decided to NOT try to make a yellow turn arrow...and heard the brakes locking up a bit as I stopped. (Good thing I learned to drive before ABS, so my reflexes knew to let off the pedal and let the wheels start rolling a bit.)
Brett Proctor
Well-known member
OK you peaked my curiosity as to why its not drawing out all the gas that's in the tank.
Let me know what you find. (assuming that you're going to look for the reason why)
Let me know what you find. (assuming that you're going to look for the reason why)
nbb350
Active member
I need to go back and look thru my old pix, but my current "hunch" is that the "fuel line connection" at the bottom of the tank is too long. I made it from a piece of flared brake line and a brass nut; maybe the line is sticking up too far into the tank. If I can find the pic, it might tell me more...or I have to drain the tank contents out onto the transaxle to remove it. Uh, no way!
Brett Proctor
Well-known member
You have to remove the tank to get the pickup out??
Maybe If you don't have one already this would be a good excuse to get a borescope. Feed it down the filler neck and have a look inside of the tank.
Maybe If you don't have one already this would be a good excuse to get a borescope. Feed it down the filler neck and have a look inside of the tank.
nbb350
Active member
Tank is relocated to directly above the transaxle. Pickup is on bottom of the tank, so draining it would involve dumping gas on the transaxle (assuming the "missing" 5 gallons would come pouring out when I pull the pickup out of the bottom).
Another possibility: the missing 5 gallons Evaporated over the last 12 months. BUT, the system is sealed; the vent line goes into a charcoal canister. And I've never smelled Gas in the Shop where the car is stored (low temp 53F, high temp 78F).
Good idea on the borescope! I have one! Hopefully I can see something thru the 5 gallons of gas I just added...
Another possibility: the missing 5 gallons Evaporated over the last 12 months. BUT, the system is sealed; the vent line goes into a charcoal canister. And I've never smelled Gas in the Shop where the car is stored (low temp 53F, high temp 78F).
Good idea on the borescope! I have one! Hopefully I can see something thru the 5 gallons of gas I just added...
Brett Proctor
Well-known member
is it possible to syphon 5 gal of gas out through the filler neck. You can fill the tank through there why not syphon some gas out through there
Try to get the level at where the engine stopped at.
just a thought
Try to get the level at where the engine stopped at.
just a thought