Sterling #460B -- ydeardorff's

[ydeardorff]

Well the new caliper brackets have arrived.
Now Im off to get the hubs cleaned, pull the bearings out, and get them off to the machinist.

Now that I have in front of me, they look very easy to manufacture. I have made a dimensional drawing of one of the brackets to kept safe should anyone need them in the future, and have equal or worse problems getting ahold of lanner.
To make the opposite side, one only needs me to mirror the photo.


The mounting plates are made out of 1/4" steel plate.


The caliper mouting holes are made from a threaded steel piece welded to the plate.

The plate mounting bolt holes (x3) are about 6 degrees out of line with the hub hole, and caliper mounting holes

There is a small chamfer along the upper edge of the hole for the hub. Very, very close tolerances here. But the applied force is neither axial, nor radial. Its inline with the roatation of the wheel and hub. So that leaves planty of meat for the bolts to use.

This last photo shows something any of us could use on our cars. I beleive with a small amount of work even drum brakes could be made to work with this.
It is a two wire connector with two exposed contacts facing the disk. It is set at a pre-determined depth so when the pads become worn, they make contact and complete the circuit against the disk rotor. This, then lights up a light on the dash to make the driver aware of excessive pad wear.

Simple, yet very effective safety device.

 

[islandman]

Now that I have in front of me, they look very easy to manufacture. .

I think that's what a few members have been trying to tell you *nothing to see* oops.....

Nice to see progress *thumbs up*

 

[ydeardorff]

I think that's what a few members have been trying to tell you *nothing to see* oops.....

Nice to see progress *thumbs up*

I know, but as you can see from the previous photos, there are some large differences between years, and models. These differences could be upgrades to the design, or they could be needed differences that I wouldnt have known about. The previous pictures I posted before were also from a 944 turbo conversion, but from an earlier year conversion, and on a different VW pan year. So, easy to manufacture or not, at least I have what I need and can finally move on.

 

[Peter]

Interesting point on the brake wear warning lights.
Anyone can fit them by drilling a small hole in the brake pad next to the backplate and inserting a piece of insulated wire with the warning light positive fed, pad wears down, wire wears through the insulation and light comes on when the wire earth's out on the disc. Easy to do and well worth the effort.*rock on*

 

[ydeardorff]

Posted for reference for NASIOC.

Apparently minor hairline cracks like these are very common. The local shops have to do a pressure test first, before they can be called bad. My local shop didn't do this. So they may be headed back for testing.

After a little more clean up you almost cant even tell.

 

[ydeardorff]

After checking with the shop, I found that they did know enough to pressure check (vacuum) the cooling jacket to test for leaks. The heads did in fact fail. The leak was out of the exhaust port. So the bottom end is more than likely good.

However, this leads me to the question. spend 1200 on a new set of heads and put them on an unknown 88k engine. Or purchase a 40-50k JDM long block motor for 1000-1500. Again the condition of the JDM motor would also be unknown, but would come with a 30 day warranty. Hmmm

So word for the wise, whenever you are thinking about getting a turbo subaru engine have the seller perform a coolant system vacuum check. Apparently all turbo heads crack, but not all of them are bad when cracked. So having documentation of them holding a good vacuum on the coolant system shows the conditions of the heads are good.