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Sterling #S009

Brett Proctor

Well-known member
worked on the inside manual canopy latch release system yesterday
The latch system is electric powered and if there ever is a total loss of power, to get the canopy open your screwed.
so I made this up. I'll also make a manual release for the outside.

The center console has 2 section to it
1. open it and you have access to the storage part
PC150001.JPG

2. open it and you have access to whats under the storage bin
In this case its the manual release lever for the canopy
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Cable then goes into the 2 into1 splitter
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Then I made cable adjusters for each line
PC150005.JPG

Now if there is a total loss of power its possible to open the canopy and get out without crawling out the window or sun roof(if you have one)
 

farfegnubbin

Site Owner
Staff member
I like it. That’s great to have, and I like how you implemented it. Hiding it in that center console is slick.

Did you fabricate that 2-into-1 connector or is that for a donor? I like it.
 

Brett Proctor

Well-known member
2 into 1 connector came from here

I didn't use the cables that came with the connector since they weren't the right length for what I needed them for, instead I used cables that I pulled from cars that were used for the trunk and hood release.

These cables were 5mm so I used these ferrules for the ends

And for the ends these are needed (for the 2 into 1 connector)

As for the adjusters those were home made but there are better looking ones out on the market. I just didn't want to order them and have to wait. If ordering them just make sure they are the right size for the cables that are being used. I saw some for 4mm, 5mm, and 6mm cables
 

Brett Proctor

Well-known member
I get lucky once in a while
That 2 into 1 connector was originally used for the latch system for the rear louver.
Instead of using the oem system (spring loaded pawl) I was going to make it so you could lock the rear louver but went a different route on that.
 

jmd

New member
Hey Brett, I was continuing to read through your epic build thread and came across your walk around video. Something very interesting is what appears to be "hood latch loops" extending from the mid section of your rear tube of the Top-Lift arms. There appears to be one on each side. When opening your top I hear the beep beep beep from the video, then an audible click before the top lifts and after it closes. Do you have any additional information on this setup that you can share? Would you mind doing a closer walk through of your top lifting system setup? Also, you appear to be running electronic linear actuators, if so, have you moved the mounting point? It seems that the front of your canopy does not lift first when the top lifts, unlike most other cars? I'd also like to see additional detail for the canopy side of your emergency release system? I continue to be an awe of your work. thanks for the continued inspiration for my own build.
 

Brett Proctor

Well-known member
Hey Brett, I was continuing to read through your epic build thread and came across your walk around video. Something very interesting is what appears to be "hood latch loops" extending from the mid section of your rear tube of the Top-Lift arms. There appears to be one on each side. When opening your top I hear the beep beep beep from the video, then an audible click before the top lifts and after it closes. Do you have any additional information on this setup that you can share? Would you mind doing a closer walk through of your top lifting system setup? Also, you appear to be running electronic linear actuators, if so, have you moved the mounting point? It seems that the front of your canopy does not lift first when the top lifts, unlike most other cars? I'd also like to see additional detail for the canopy side of your emergency release system? I continue to be an awe of your work. thanks for the continued inspiration for my own build.
The research and development for that system took some years before it went into the car
The main part of the system is the rear lift gate system that came out of a 2008 Grand Caravan. Other SUV systems were looked at and tested but in the end I settled on this system.
Here is the beginning discussions on using a SUV system
All safety features and functions of the system were retained.
You can open and close the the canopy with the key fob (open/close or lock/unlock the top remotely) or use the open/close switch (button)
It has pinch sensors so it wont come down and crush you. If the system senses something in the way the motor stops and the drive system disengages.
You can open the canopy manually (not using the drive system) or you can open it using the drive system
The beeping sound is the warning system that lets you know the the lift system has been activated before the drive system engages.
The click is the latch system engaging or disengaging. When closing, the drive system lowers the canopy till the latch senses the striker. the drive system then disengages and the latch pulls the canopy the rest of the way down.

I can post pictures if you need more info on it. As far as posting another video I would have to get in contact with David and see if he would be willing to help on that.
I don't belong to any sites that can handle the size of a video file (and have no desire to join one). He let me use his connections to post the last video file.

OK my time on the computer has come to an end. I need to take a break. I can only take so long being on the computer before I've had enough and I've reach that point.
Let me know what other info you need
 

Brett Proctor

Well-known member
The sides are still in the makings.
I'll move the car out into the sun and place the side skirts that I'm thinking of using up to the car so you can get an idea of what it may look like.

Remember this is just the first attempt. It usually takes me a few tries before I get it right, so I'm open to any ideas.
Front spoiler will extend back to the wheel well
 

vpogv

Active member
The sides are still in the makings.
I'll move the car out into the sun and place the side skirts that I'm thinking of using up to the car so you can get an idea of what it may look like.

Remember this is just the first attempt. It usually takes me a few tries before I get it right, so I'm open to any ideas.
Front spoiler will extend back to the wheel well

Oh absolutely. My post was more just made with excitement to see vs. critiquing.
 

Brett Proctor

Well-known member
No biggie
I'll try to get a full view of the car posted today with the body effects on
I've just been informed I have covid.

Wife told me that its to bad I have covid, we could have some wild sex. I told her I was feeling better. She just laughed.
 

Brett Proctor

Well-known member
Work on the front continues.
Still nothing really to show for the new version on the sides (sorry Will), but I do have a plan for them. I should start on them soon.
Got into the car yesterday and with the steering column cover on I found that it takes up a lot of needed leg space so to resolve that issue I removed the seat tracks and bolted the seats directly to the floor. That gave me the needed leg room and more head room.
Started to order fiberglass supplies so when it gets warm enough I'll have everything I need to make the molds for these parts.
Power steering still doesn't work. I did some research on it and from what I found out apparently anytime there is a loss of power the steering angle and module need to be reprogramed. So with that being said I found out that not all programmers will do that for my column even though they say they will. (if you go to some of the manufacturers web sites they will have a list of the vehicles the scanners will talk to) The ones I found that are capable of doing it for my column will cost around $500 or more.
Kind of a steep price to get the power steering to work but the programmers also scan trouble codes and other items that I can use for my other cars. So its just a decision of when I want to part with the money.

I know how some of you like pictures so heres what I'm thinking for the front. Instead of running the spoiler back to the wheel well as I first thought I think this will look better.
Took the car out of the garage to get a better view
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P1030005.JPG
 
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Peter

Active member
I know what you mean, OBD2 is 'supposed to be "Universal" but so many makers have their own idea of what is "Universal".
I have only one car that has the OBD 2 socket and that's on the 2001 Mercedes W168 and even then I can't do half of what I should be able to do unless I pay 1200€ for the Mercedes 'STAR' software and laptop. I manage to get most readings and resets using Delhpi 2015 on a Lenovo tablet with windows 7 but not easy.
 

jmd

New member
Brett, which PS unit are you using? I picked up a Prius electro-assist unit and a GPS mod unit that allows for speed to essentially turn off the power steering at speed, but on for things like parking lot navigation. The unit is pretty large and I'm still undecided on using it. It's awesome to see the progress continue.
 

Brett Proctor

Well-known member
My EPS is from a 2012 Ford Fiesta, but the reason I'm using that unit is because the wiring harness that I'm using came out of that car.
That unit I don't think would be a good choice for you because it uses CAN and you need the BCM for it to work. At least thats what I hope will make it work. If it needs more I'll leave it as it stands.(manual) As I mention I hope the programmer will fix the issue.

A while back before the Toyota unit became popular the 2002-07 Saturn Vue was the unit of choice.
People were putting it in their hot rods, tractors, cars, trucks. The internet was full of people putting that unit in vehicles. On ebay they were selling a control module that regulated how much force was exerted from the unit.
I think youtube still has some videos on the unit being used in conversions.
I pulled one of those units and mailed it to a member that wanted it (he didn't have any yards near him). Don't know what happen with that. Haven't heard from him in a while.

I think EPS kits that were being sold used that unit in them.
The shaft going to the steering wheel was kind of long but people were shortening it to work for their application. On the other side of the unit the shaft going to the steering box was short

This is the EPS that I'm using. This was a spare that I got. the one I'm using isn't rusty
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P1060002.JPG
 

farfegnubbin

Site Owner
Staff member
Going back to those exterior shots, I like how your rear-facing hood scoop/heat extractor picks up about the same styling motif as the center of your dash. Those ridges compliment each other nicely. That’s subtle but cool.

The front dam looks better all the time. And forgive me, I’m not trying to scare up more work for you… do you think you’ll line up the fog light cutouts with the turn signals and the headlights (and make the middle slot the same width as the hood?) Here is a photoshopped photo. I can see it being good either way.
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Brett Proctor

Well-known member
Now thats the kind of feed back I can work with and I get visual aids also.
Nothing more frustrating than someone saying "I don't like it" or "it doesn't look right" or "there's something wrong with it" and one of my favorites "it wont work" but they don't give you any spacifics.
OK with that being said I agree with you Warren
The openings don't line up right as you noted and moving things around like you have them will make the front look better.
Thanks
I'll address those issues
Now is the time to let me know. Not after the molds are made.

Thanks again for your input
Brett
 

farfegnubbin

Site Owner
Staff member


Hey guys, this video clip is a test. I think I figured out how to allow easy video posting for all of us. There is now a button that looks kind of like a video camera with a plus on it. I was able to successfully post the clip directly from my iPhone. Bret (and others,) I think we can easily post videos of our cars. 👍👍
 
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