What's new

Zenny's Sterling (GP39)

Zenny

Member
I might have better luck asking on The Samba or some other VW forum, but I checked back through my parts orders and realized that the rear disc brake kit I had chosen was for a 58-67 bug, with mine being a 57. CB performance has a Porsche bolt pattern kit with e-brakes for 800 dollars, everything on cip1 seems prohibitively expensive, and SoCal Imports has a non-e-brake kit for 300 dollars. Are there some crucial differences between the 57 and 58 rear suspension bits that would prevent me from using the 58+ kit? I would prefer to have an e-brake on this car, with my last resort being some form of secondary e-brake that I install separately, or a brake line lock (EMPI or LR or Jamar) for the rear.
 

Zenny

Member
I might have better luck asking on The Samba or some other VW forum, but I checked back through my parts orders and realized that the rear disc brake kit I had chosen was for a 58-67 bug, with mine being a 57. CB performance has a Porsche bolt pattern kit with e-brakes for 800 dollars, everything on cip1 seems prohibitively expensive, and SoCal Imports has a non-e-brake kit for 300 dollars. Are there some crucial differences between the 57 and 58 rear suspension bits that would prevent me from using the 58+ kit? I would prefer to have an e-brake on this car, with my last resort being some form of secondary e-brake that I install separately, or a brake line lock (EMPI or LR or Jamar) for the rear.
One thing I didn't consider is that I can technically just source all the parts separately and find some caliper that will fit the rotors I get.
 

Brett Proctor

Well-known member
Your getting a lot more items for that $800 hence the reason for the higher price.

Not sure but the difference between the 2 years could be that the e-brake lever was relocated, so the cables are a difference length.

I believe the law requires you to have a e-brake. The none e-brake systems are for off road only. (just a guess)

I'm assuming the wheels you got have the Porsche 5 bolt pattern and you want to stay with those.

Piecing together your own system usually costs more than buying a kit with everything in it.
 

Zenny

Member
Your getting a lot more items for that $800 hence the reason for the higher price.
Okay, thank you. I think I have made a choice, it's a $500 kit I missed on cip1.

Here's one question regarding the floorpan: how far back should I do the drop? I see that pog's is somewhere around where I placed my tie rod, but I don't see any reason why I shouldn't take it all the way to the back. I could take a page out of your book, Brett, with your rear storage area bit. (At least, I think those are storage compartments...)
 

Zenny

Member
Okay, thank you. I think I have made a choice, it's a $500 kit I missed on cip1.

Here's one question regarding the floorpan: how far back should I do the drop? I see that pog's is somewhere around where I placed my tie rod, but I don't see any reason why I shouldn't take it all the way to the back. I could take a page out of your book, Brett, with your rear storage area bit. (At least, I think those are storage compartments...)
Oops, it seems that the image never posted.
20220507_190609.jpg
 

vpogv

Active member
Here's one question regarding the floorpan: how far back should I do the drop? I see that pog's is somewhere around where I placed my tie rod, but I don't see any reason why I shouldn't take it all the way to the back. I could take a page out of your book, Brett, with your rear storage area bit. (At least, I think those are storage compartments...)
If you have the metal go all the way back, there's no reason not to. I did the drop based off of the original build manual and drop measurements.
drop1.2.JPG
 

Zenny

Member
If you have the metal go all the way back, there's no reason not to. I did the drop based off of the original build manual and drop measurements.
View attachment 9654
Thank you, I appreciate the info. How did you bend the metal for those small half and 1 inch connecting points? I am using 11 gauge metal and I don't believe that any affordable brakes will be able to bend it. Do you recommend I just send it to a metal bending shop?
 

vpogv

Active member
Mine was 18 or 16 ga so I just used an old counter top, 2 clamps and a hammer. Poor edge never saw it coming.

DSC02161_595.jpg
 

Nic

Active member
Mine was 18 or 16 ga so I just used an old counter top, 2 clamps and a hammer. Poor edge never saw it coming.
:LOL: I did similar, clamped it to the bench, used 1.5" angle iron, heated up the bend line with an oxy torch and smacked it into submission with a hammer.
 

Zenny

Member
There's a few weird cuts and a warping issue with my body. I recorded a video going over everything, only 3 mins.

tl;dw: There's 2 areas on the inside of the canopy that may have been cut by a previous owner, but they might also be where it was cut from the mold, just looking for confirmation. Body had some filler in the area that connected to the frame head. I didn't remove it all, and it sat with the left front elevated about 1.25" from 2/6/22 (wrong date in video) - late april. Canopy doesn't line up anymore. What should I do?
 
Last edited:

vpogv

Active member
Both of your cuts are normal and how it was from the factory. The body warp and canopy fitment I wouldn't even worry about until you get it back on the pan. The body will settle and I'm guessing the canopy will align back up nicely.
 

ratrog64

Well-known member
Yup what he said. Worry about the body once its bolted back down to the chassis. My experience is out of the 3 cars I have built already, none of the canopy's are a perfect fit.

It will even change some once you have a canopy gasket installed.
 

Attachments

  • 27.jpg
    27.jpg
    621.6 KB · Views: 107
  • 28.jpg
    28.jpg
    2.9 MB · Views: 123

Zenny

Member
Yup what he said. Worry about the body once its bolted back down to the chassis. My experience is out of the 3 cars I have built already, none of the canopy's are a perfect fit.

It will even change some once you have a canopy gasket installed.
Okay, thank you all. I appreciate the answers, I'll have it bolted back on shortly. What do you all recommend I do while the body is off the frame? All I can think of doing before is putting my trans back in, running brakes, and setting up the steering and suspension bits. My floorpan is nearly finished, all I have to do is weld it into the body which I should get done this weekend.
 

vpogv

Active member
Clean the pan, seal the seams, undercoat the bottom, brake lines, new cables, engine trans? Now's your chance to do anything easier to reach with no body.
 

Zenny

Member
Well, a lot has happened. Got busy and didn't do a ton of work, and ended up screwing up my attempt at the floorpan. Beginning of July marked the pieces being finished and me cleaning them up, but when I tried to put them on it turned out that the warping I noticed earlier was too much to be used. To make a long story short, I contacted a shop through recommendation of a friend's father and got the pieces laser cut and bent with a brake. Took about a month, but they are incredible quality and a great price. I'll add pictures later when I'm at my PC.
 

Zenny

Member
Main reason for today's post: in the message that pog sent a few months ago that contained a manual drawing of the floorpan parts, the outer edge of the pan that bolts to the body and the lip that the spot welds that the tunnel connect to are on the same level. Every measurement I've made with my level show the outer edge being higher than the inner lip, which can be easily visually verified by simply looking at it. If I weld the outer and inner pieces on, I'm goning to have a tilt to the floorpan, roughly 1/2" lower on the center of the car vs the outside. I don't really think this will be too much of a problem as I can always add a spacer to the seat mounts to let the inner edge of the seat rest higher up. Do any if you see any problems that could arise from this?


Edit: Oh man... After looking back at that picture right after posting this, I think it is a bit higher. In figure 3 it says "miss this top flange". I interpreted that as " eliminate the 1/2 in piece entirely on outer panels". Probably means keep the 1/2 inches but don't bend. That would account for the extra 1/2 inch of height... Thinking a bit more about it could have saved me from this situation, but I'm in it so I'll have to stick with it. Don't particularly fancy asking them to make me another 2 pieces especially when commission work isn't what they do.
drop1.2.JPG
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20220821_182703.jpg
    IMG_20220821_182703.jpg
    3.3 MB · Views: 90
Last edited:

farfegnubbin

Site Owner
Staff member
Yeah, I think I had the luxury of playing with unmodified replacement floor pans for a Bug early on in my Sterling adventures and I do think I remember one border being a little higher and/or the pan was stamped a little deeper towards the outer border.

I never noticed that particular note on those diagrams before. You’re right that that isn’t written very clearly.

I wonder if you could cut or grind the flange off on that side and weld just a flat piece of metal to extend it up the extra bit (and just go without a flange in that area like they seem to suggest in that cryptic diagram.) Or like you said just use as is and make up for it in however you mount the seat. Either way your dropped seats will still be a huge net gain.
 
Top